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Routes in North Face

Access Ramp T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
Caught Inside T M4 Steep Snow
Cowardice T M2 Mod. Snow
Deception T M5 Mod. Snow
Hobbs-Slate North Face Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Learning to Walk T M2 Mod. Snow
North Buttress T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2
North Buttress Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northeast Wall and Buttress T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northwest Couloir T WI3-4 Mod. Snow
Northwest Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Psychopomp T M4+ Steep Snow
Torre Couloir (NW Ridge Var) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2-3 M2 Mod. Snow
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Type: Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 1600 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Preston Rhea - 12.7.2015
Page Views: 624 total · 20/month
Shared By: Preston Rhea on Dec 7, 2015
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

Psychopomp is a long gully on the northeastern shoulder of Mount Morrison that parallels and crosses Caught Inside. This route is probably the best varied winter climb on the mountain. The climbing is very similar to Caught Inside, though of higher quality and more sustained. Beside the second pitch, in the first five pitches, there are sections of thoughtful M4 climbing in each pitch.

Pitch 1 - Starting about 20 feet left of the obvious deep red gully that Caught Inside follows for the first couple pitches, climb broken rock straight up. Belay wherever you can once about 55m has been climbed.

Pitch 2 - An easy pitch up to the top of the rock band onto the snowfield. Belay were practical.

Pitch 3 - Take the right side of the gully climbing straight up the corner and staying right. Stretch this pitch as far as you can. The Access Ramp joins the route here.

Pitch 4 - An imposing chimney system looms overhead for as far as you can see. Bypass the first chimney by tooling up the face just left. The steep runout climbing on this face is thankfully surprisingly positive and secure. Keep climbing up the gully and chimneys up to the base of a narrow squeeze chimney topped by a chockstone. Belay right before the chimney starts.

Pitch 5 - Again, bypass the squeeze chimney by following a lost arrow sized seam up and to the left. When this runs out an exciting couple moves right to the chockstone and over it conclude the hard climbing on the route. An easy snow gully splits in two; take the right side. Take a deep couple breaths because the hard climbing on the route is over. Belay where practical.

Pitch 6 - Easy snow climbing passing the occasional rock step. Stretch these pitches and if confident, simul-climbing to the top will speed things along greatly.

Pitch 7 - More easy snow climbing passing the occasional rock step. Near the end of this pitch the gully opens up into a bowl, stay left.

Pitch 8 - More easy snow climbing passing the occasional rock step. Stay left to the top of the ridge.

From here follow an easy snow gully to the summit or start descending. If continuing on to the summit, there is still around 800' to go.

Location [Suggest Change]

The route starts on the far end of the northeastern shoulder of Mount Morrison. Once in the hanging valley below the north face, follow the valley almost to the saddle between Mount Morrison and Mini Morrison. Caught Inside is the fairly obvious and visible deep red gash. Psychopomp starts just left of that.

The route ends on a ridge on the northeastern shoulder of Mount Morrison. From here easy snow leads to the summit. To descend, either proceed to the summit and descend via the eastern slopes or traverse south across a rock buttress with no technical difficulties before descending the eastern slope. Do not descend the obvious gully directly below the top of Psychopomp as this cliffs out.

Protection [Suggest Change]

The rack should consist of double in cams from .3-#2, a single #3, and a good selection of pins (knifeblades, arrows, and beaks). Small amounts of ice were encountered on the first ascent; in extremely good years, a couple stubby ice screws may be useful. Although not necessary, a screamer or two may come in handy as not all the placements are fantastic.
Elias Jordan
Mazama, WA
  M4+ Steep Snow
Elias Jordan   Mazama, WA
  M4+ Steep Snow
Fun, enjoyable climbing through relatively solid rock. The hardest move felt like it came on P3 moving right over a chockstone (just passed the cross-over of Caught Inside) with our snow levels. The most sustained climbing was on the "lost arrow pitch" of P5 with great gear. Easy snow climbing/few rock steps from there to the top. Feb 15, 2018
Ian McEleney
Mammoth Lakes, CA
 
Ian McEleney   Mammoth Lakes, CA
 
The Lost Arrow pitch was a highlight of the route. A slightly harder variation might be to take Caught Inside to the snowfield and then finish on Psychopomp from there. Feb 15, 2018

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