Type: Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 1600 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Preston Rhea - 12.7.2015
Page Views: 1,128 total · 25/month
Shared By: Preston Rhea on Dec 7, 2015
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Psychopomp is a long gully on the northeastern shoulder of Mount Morrison that parallels and crosses Caught Inside. This route is probably the best varied winter climb on the mountain. The climbing is very similar to Caught Inside, though of higher quality and more sustained. Beside the second pitch, in the first five pitches, there are sections of thoughtful M4 climbing in each pitch.

Pitch 1 - Starting about 20 feet left of the obvious deep red gully that Caught Inside follows for the first couple pitches, climb broken rock straight up. Belay wherever you can once about 55m has been climbed.

Pitch 2 - An easy pitch up to the top of the rock band onto the snowfield. Belay were practical.

Pitch 3 - Take the right side of the gully climbing straight up the corner and staying right. Stretch this pitch as far as you can. The Access Ramp joins the route here.

Pitch 4 - An imposing chimney system looms overhead for as far as you can see. Bypass the first chimney by tooling up the face just left. The steep runout climbing on this face is thankfully surprisingly positive and secure. Keep climbing up the gully and chimneys up to the base of a narrow squeeze chimney topped by a chockstone. Belay right before the chimney starts.

Pitch 5 - Again, bypass the squeeze chimney by following a lost arrow sized seam up and to the left. When this runs out an exciting couple moves right to the chockstone and over it conclude the hard climbing on the route. An easy snow gully splits in two; take the right side. Take a deep couple breaths because the hard climbing on the route is over. Belay where practical.

Pitch 6 - Easy snow climbing passing the occasional rock step. Stretch these pitches and if confident, simul-climbing to the top will speed things along greatly.

Pitch 7 - More easy snow climbing passing the occasional rock step. Near the end of this pitch the gully opens up into a bowl, stay left.

Pitch 8 - More easy snow climbing passing the occasional rock step. Stay left to the top of the ridge.

From here follow an easy snow gully to the summit or start descending. If continuing on to the summit, there is still around 800' to go.


The route starts on the far end of the northeastern shoulder of Mount Morrison. Once in the hanging valley below the north face, follow the valley almost to the saddle between Mount Morrison and Mini Morrison. Caught Inside is the fairly obvious and visible deep red gash. Psychopomp starts just left of that.

The route ends on a ridge on the northeastern shoulder of Mount Morrison. From here easy snow leads to the summit. To descend, either proceed to the summit and descend via the eastern slopes or traverse south across a rock buttress with no technical difficulties before descending the eastern slope. Do not descend the obvious gully directly below the top of Psychopomp as this cliffs out.


The rack should consist of double in cams from .3-#2, a single #3, and a good selection of pins (knifeblades, arrows, and beaks). Small amounts of ice were encountered on the first ascent; in extremely good years, a couple stubby ice screws may be useful. Although not necessary, a screamer or two may come in handy as not all the placements are fantastic.