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Routes in North Face

Access Ramp T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Caught Inside T M4
Deception T M5
Hobbs-Slate North Face Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
North Buttress T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2
North Buttress Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northeast Wall and Buttress T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northwest Couloir T WI3-4
Northwest Ridge T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Psychopomp T M4+
Torre Couloir (NW Ridge Var) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2-3 M2
Type: Trad, Alpine, 3000 ft
FA: Norman Clyde - 6.22.1928
Page Views: 1,287 total, 26/month
Shared By: Preston Rhea on Nov 4, 2013
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A very long scramble with 3000' of climbing not including the approach. The rock on the route is pretty loose and shattered, but the climbing is all easy scrambling.

There is no complex route finding here, just gain the ridge by whatever looks fun and easy and follow it to the summit. On the ridge there are a couple steeper steps and one short downclimb, all around the 3rd class rating in difficulty.

Location

Leave the Convict Lake trail at the southwestern short of Convict Lake and climb a prominent talus slope towards a saddle with some clumps of trees. Gain the ridge where it looks best. There are a lot of ways to go here.

Descend via the eastern slope of Mount Morrison.

Protection

A small alpine rock rack would be more than adequate if the party decided to rope up for any of the route.

Photos

C Brooks
Fresno, CA
 
C Brooks   Fresno, CA
 
Much better as a winter climb. Aug 17, 2016
Sean Maher
Santa Barbara, CA
Sean Maher   Santa Barbara, CA
We retreated ~500 ft above the vegetated saddle, just above a smaller saddle/notch. The rock quality deteriorates here such that committing to every move feels like playing Russian roulette with rockfall, which is too bad since the route has a stellar position and epic summit. Laurel Mountain's NE Gully was much more solid and enjoyable. If you're intent on Morrisons NW ridge, at least bring a helmet. Jul 5, 2016