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Routes in Upper Wall (aka "The Ramp")

Arms Race T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Banshee T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Low Profile T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mirage T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Horizons II T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rancho Cucamonga T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Them T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Who Me? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

Description

At the left end of the Sea Walls is an enormous, leftwards-slanting ramp, created by rock stabilisation works some time in the 60s (*check this*). Above this is a slightly overhanging wall of compact, textured rock, and some of the most popular hard routes in the gorge. The character of the climbs here is very different to the rest of the gorge, owing to the steeper angle, abundant protection provided by cracks or solid fixed gear, and sound rock.

The crag is a real suntrap, and is climbable year-round. The best conditions can be found on a crisp, sunny winter's day, when friction is at it's best. In the summer, it can get sweltering so a day with a stiff breeze and maybe some cloud cover is probably best.

Newcomers often start with the popular crack climbs "Banshee" and "New Horizons 2" (both E2 5c or mid 5.10). From there progress to the classic and airy route "Them" and the well-protected, cruxy "Mirage" (both E3 6a or low 5.11), and on to even harder routes!

Getting There

From the Sea Walls car park, walk to the left end of the crag and up a huge ramp. The climbs are on the wall above. An alternative approach can be made by abseil down from the North West corner of the Downs.

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