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Elevation: 137 ft 42 m
GPS: 50.5379, -4.801
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Euan Cameron on Aug 12, 2007
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Jack Copland

Description Suggest change

The South West of England has something for ever climber.

The tip of Cornwall and the island of Lundy offer quality granite sea cliffs, an experience unrivalled elsewhere in the country. More granite, with a remarkably different composition, can be found outcropping as Tors on Dartmoor.

Much of the climbing on the North coast of Devon and Cornwall is on the Culm measures: a worryingly transient rock consisting variously of sandstone, shale, limestone, slate,.... Most of it is in varying states of falling down, but the climbing on the unique and spectacular fins at Lower Sharpnose is not to be missed.

East of Cornwall, the South coast is predominantly limestone in it's various guises. Berry Head at Torbay is home to some spectacular sea cliff adventures, as well as one of the UK's premier DWS venues. Right on the East of the area is the county of Dorset, where you can find reliable weather (well, to the extent that it exists in the UK!) and the quality sport climbing destination of Portland. The nearby area of coast near Swanage provides a more traditional ethic, and more DWS action can be had at Lulworth.

For the limestone aficionado, yet more awaits inland around Avon and Somerset. The towering walls of Cheddar gorge host some impressive multipitch sport (and trad) climbs, as well as more accessible roadside cragging. Avon gorge, in the centre of Bristol, is a major and historic urban crag, with a distinctive feel to it. Finally, across the Severn in South Wales is the tranquil area known as the Wye Valley. From the intimidating trad adventures on the GO Wall at Wintour's Leap, to the steep sport climbs at Ban-y-Gor rocks, the Wye caters for all tastes.

Getting There Suggest change

The get to this area take the M4 west of London and then head South on the M5.

275 Total Climbs

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Location: South West Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at South West

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
 6
Alison Rib
Trad 3 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 8
Bosigran Ridge a.k.a. Commando R…
Trad 8 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 6
Giant's Cave Buttress
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
Demo Route
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 10
Doorpost
Trad 3 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
Gronk
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Suspension Bridge Arete
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Lost Horizon
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Hell Gates
Trad 3 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 4
Anvil Chorus
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Suspense
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
New Horizons II
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
Reptile Smile
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
Pregnant Pause
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Alison Rib Cornwall > W Penwith > Bosigran
 6
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Trad 3 pitches
Bosigran Ridge a.k.a. Comma… Cornwall > W Penwith > Bosigran
 8
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 8 pitches
Giant's Cave Buttress Avon Gorge > Giant's Cave Buttress
 6
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Demo Route Cornwall > W Penwith > Sennen (Pedn-Men-Du)
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Doorpost Cornwall > W Penwith > Bosigran
 10
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Gronk Avon Gorge > Sea Walls
 4
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
Suspension Bridge Arete Avon Gorge > Suspension Bridge But…
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Lost Horizon Baggy Point
 4
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Hell Gates Avon Gorge > Suspension Bridge But…
 4
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Anvil Chorus Cornwall > W Penwith > Bosigran
 4
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Suspense Avon Gorge > Suspension Bridge But…
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
New Horizons II Avon Gorge > Upper Wall (aka "The…
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Reptile Smile Dorset > Portland > Blacknor North
 5
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Pregnant Pause Dorset > Portland > Blacknor Central
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in South West »

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