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Areas in Avon Gorge

Exploding Galaxy Wall 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Giant's Cave Buttress 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Main Area 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Main Wall 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
New Quarry 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Sea Walls 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Suspension Bridge Buttress 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Unknown Buttress 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Upper Wall (aka "The Ramp") 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Elevation: 96 ft
GPS: 51.463, -2.631 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 3,713 total · 48/month
Shared By: Nick Russell on Sep 1, 2011
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell
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Description

The ultimate urban crag, steeped in history and adventure: few other cities can boast such a climbing asset! It really is in the heart of Bristol, a short walk from the centre, cliffs dropping from the open parkland of the Downs to the river Avon below. The city is invisible from the climbs, but unfortunately the A4 is not.

Love it or hate it, this is the reality of urban climbing: you pay for the convenience with traffic noise and communication difficulties (except for the few days every year that they close the road).

Delicate, technical and bold characterises the climbing at Avon gorge. It's a common complaint that "all the holds face the wrong way", and talk of "typical Avon weirdness" is not uncommon. True, it does take a bit of getting used to, but once you do it flows. There is a paucity of strong, natural lines on the quarried limestone faces of the gorge, and a lot of the routes follow much more subtle features: difficult to pick out from the ground but making perfect sense once you're up there.

The rock is quarried limestone, mainly sound but care must always be taken. It seems that no amount of time or number of ascents will rid the walls entirely of their loose holds. A strong trad ethic presides, and bolts are few and far between. Old, rusting pitons provide the sole protection (psychological or otherwise) on many of the routes, and the current like-for-like fixed gear policy ensures that they are never going to be replaced by bolts. However, there is a big movement to replace the mankiest pitons with shiny new stainless steel ones.
Seasonal bird ban Details

Getting There

Walking:
15 minutes from the city centre, across Clifton and the Downs. There are footpaths/roads running across the top of the cliff and climbers paths descending at various points. Once at the bottom of the cliffs, no area is more than 15 minutes walk from any other

Driving:
There is a small parking area just off the A4 at the base of the Sea Walls, maybe accommodating 15-20 vehicles. This is a busy road so it is easier to pull in if approaching from the North West. Other, even smaller areas can be found at various points on the A4, all on the same side of the road. Alternative parking can be found at the top of the cliff on Circular Road, though parking restrictions apply at most times. Use any of the climbers paths to descend from here.

Guidebooks

There are now three guidebooks covering this area: the Climbers' Club definitive guide Avon and Cheddar, the Rockfax select guide West Country Climbs, and the new Climber's Club select guide South West Climbs (volume 1).

The former is the definitive guide, and covers all the routes up to 1992, while the latter two are select guides, with less coverage. However, they do have better topos and clearer descriptions and contain more than enough routes for the occasional visitor, and will keep the keen local climber busy for a good couple of years.

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Jordan Collins
South Lake Tahoe
Jordan Collins   South Lake Tahoe
In bristol from now until 26th looking for partners to climb with either here or somewhere else around here. Carless. Aug 18, 2014

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