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Routes in Upper Wall (aka "The Ramp")

Arms Race T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Banshee T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Low Profile T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mirage T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Horizons II T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rancho Cucamonga T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Them T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Who Me? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 23 total, 0/month
Shared By: Nick Russell on Nov 20, 2013
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

A brilliant Upper Wall testpiece, with a reputation for spitting people off!

Set off easily up the crack to a decent rest at a ledge about half way up. Place a nest of gear (medium-large nuts) then power up the continuation of the crack until it fades a couple of metres above the ledge. (It's possible, but strength-sapping, to place a small cam - about .4 or .5 - in this section.)


At this point you will really start to feel how steep the wall is as you make a couple of desperate lunges off crimps to gain good holds above. Much easier climbing up a narrow corner takes you to the belay bolts.

Location

A thin, rightward-slanting crack with a curious "pancake" formation at the bottom (useful for anchoring a belayer on).

Protection

A full set of nuts, cams up to about .75. Bolts to belay at the top.

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