Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Upper Wall (aka "The Ramp")

Arms Race T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Banshee T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Low Profile T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mirage T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Horizons II T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rancho Cucamonga T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Them T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Who Me? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: S Monks, P Newman, 18th October 1979
Page Views: 28 total, 1/month
Shared By: Nick Russell on Nov 30, 2013
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

An much coveted Upper Wall classic, pumpy but protectable! This is one of those routes that is never too hard, in fact not even particularly steep, but somehow manages to raise an outrageous pump.

Start up the right-hand of the two rightwards slanting cracks, heading for a small roof. Use of the concrete block and rock-anchor bolt used to be encouraged, but is now forbidden!

Continue following the gently but relentlessly overhanging crack above the roof, making big moves between the good bits, until a large rock-anchor ring-bolt (protection only!). From here, a slopey traverse left on withering arms gains a good flake, handcrack and salvation. Recover as much strength as possible, then make the final easy moves to a bolted abseil point above.

Location

The right-hand of the two pumpy cracks. Head for the prominent rock anchor ring bolt.

Protection

The crack protects well with cams (0.4-#1 BD) and mid-large nuts, if you have the strength to place them! The large ring-bolt near the top can (and should) be clipped as protection, and there is a bolted abseil point at the top.

Photos

0 Comments