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Elevation: 6,000 ft 1,829 m
GPS: 50.9307, -114.873
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 38,486 total · 246/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Aug 10, 2011
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose

Description Suggest change

The South Ghost is general considered the area across the dry riverbed from the Big Hill and south into Devil's Gap. This area contains both excellent ice and rock routes and is worth the wear and tear on your vehicle to have a taste.

Pro's of the area:
  • Awesome climbing for both ice and rock
  • Generally solid grey rock
  • Remote Climbs and few crowds
  • Awesome camping
  • Limitless potential for new routes

Con's of the area:
  • Remote, so rescue and cell phone usage are difficult to non-existant propositions
  • Not a lot of moderate rock routes (<5.9)
  • Road can be unpleasant to downright awful
  • The occasional insane off-roader / atv'er / dirtbiker that you'll swear is trying to kill you with their driving
  • Occasional partying folks that trash their campsite


Camping / Etiquette
While camping is unrestricted in many areas outside the national park boundary, it is imperative to tread lightly in this fragile ecosystem. Please use established fire rings, which are very abundant in the good camping spots. Pack out or burn all toilette paper. Bury all waste at least 200m away from any water source or better yet, pack it out in a ziplock. You're car camping (usually), so there is no excuse to leave anything behind. Some of the sites (at the bottom of the Big Hill in particular) frequently get trashed by people partying. Do a public service and burn their trash in your fire if you're camping in the area.

It is very helpful for climber relations and to maintain the degree of freedom we enjoy in the Ghost if we can leave this area in better condition than we found it, so pick up other's trash you may find.

Getting There Suggest change

Sometimes a good 4x4 truck is required and almost always at least high clearance to drive all the way in. Usually a car will be able to make it to at least the top of the Big Hill (85% of the way). Walking from the Big Hill to climbs in the Devil's Gap only adds about 30 minutes of mostly flat walking.

The rule of thumb for driving in the Ghost is: When in doubt, get out and walk it first. Having a spotter for more adventurous sections isn't a bad idea either. Getting a trashed vehicle out of the Ghost is not cheap.

Get a high clearance vehicle and head into the ghost. Hang a left into the dry riverbed at the bottom of the Big Hill. Look for the best spot to get in and out, being wary that the stones can be loose and your car/truck can sink into them. Crossing the riverbed leads to another dirt road and some options depending on your destination.

23 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at South Ghost

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3
 6
The Joker
Ice
WI4
 13
Aquarius
Ice
WI6
 6
Rainbow Serpent
Ice 2 pitches
WI4+
 22
Wicked Wanda
Trad, Ice
WI6
 4
Fearful Symmetry
Ice
WI6 M8
 4
Real Big Drip
Mixed, Ice 5 pitches
WI5
 17
Malignant Mushroom
Trad, Ice
WI4
 5
Weathering Heights
Ice 2 pitches
WI4 R
 7
Anorexia Nervosa
Ice 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Bonanza
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 8
Macadamia
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Joker Orient Point
 6
WI3 Ice
Aquarius Devil's Gap > Phantom Crag
 13
WI4 Ice
Rainbow Serpent Devil's Gap > Phantom Crag
 6
WI6 Ice 2 pitches
Wicked Wanda Devil's Gap > Orient Point - North
 22
WI4+ Trad, Ice
Fearful Symmetry Devil's Gap > Phantom Crag
 4
WI6 Ice
Real Big Drip Orient Point
 4
WI6 M8 Mixed, Ice 5 pitches
Malignant Mushroom Devil's Gap > Phantom Crag
 17
WI5 Trad, Ice
Weathering Heights Devil's Gap > Planters Valley > Peanut Gallery
 5
WI4 Ice 2 pitches
Anorexia Nervosa Devil's Gap > Planters Valley > Peanut Gallery
 7
WI4 R Ice 3 pitches
Bonanza Devil's Gap > Grey Ghost Wall
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Macadamia Devil's Gap > Planters Valley > E Planters Wall
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in South Ghost »

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