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Routes in East Planters Wall

Macadamia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
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Type: Trad, 430 ft, 4 pitches
FA: P. Stoliker & F. Campbell, June 1988
Page Views: 112 total · 1/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Aug 10, 2011
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

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Description [Suggest Change]

Length: 130m, 4 pitches
Sun Exposure: receives minimal sun since it looks west
Time: 2 - 3 hours to climb the route
car-to-car: 4 - 6 hours
Difficulty: 5.9 PG13
Rack: Cams: doubles of small to 3" (#3 camalot), single #4, optional #5 camalot (or old size camalot #4.5) normal selection of nuts.

An excellent moderate route with fun climbing up steep rock with good pro. Each pitch gets better and better with the climax coming with the final moves up an impossibly steep looking stemming overhang!

All the crux sections of this climb offer excellent pro, there are several new bolts to protect crux moves in lieu of old fixed pins, all anchors are bolted, and the belays are all on ledges! What more could you ask for?

A very enjoyable outing and good objective for climbers breaking into the grade.

P1 5.7 PG13, 50m: There is a slight runout between the first and second bolt on 5.6 ground, but not to bad. Climb up to the first bolt and then head up right on big holds and good feet. The 2nd bolt is somewhat hidden, but you'll see it when you get to it. Climb the rib up and right with good pro for the rest of the pitch to a 2 bolt anchor.

P2 5.9, 35m: Climb out right on the big block towards a pin and bolt that protects the crux mantel and clip another pin immediately after the mantel. Follow a corner right to another pin (don't clip or suffer rope drag) and a bolt (clip) right above the pin. Move left on tricky moves to the belay (bolt and pin).

P3 5.9, 30m: Climb straight up the steep yellow corner (good gear, 2 somewhat dubious holds) and follow the path of least resistance slightly right then left to a nice ledge system with some loose blocks. Climb a short hand crack and traverse right to a 2 bolt anchor directly below the final left facing dihedral pitch.

P4 5.9, 25m: Climb the corner to the steep, deep, crack. Climb it on big gear (#3 & #4 camalots, w/ some smaller cams mixed in) to the awesome left facing roof / prow. Clip a pin at the roof and make an airy move out, up, and right onto the top!

Location [Suggest Change]

Approach:
Starts about 25m left of on obvious bolted line (Nutman 5.10c). Macadamia starts below on arch with a first bolt noticeable about 10m up easy 5.4 climbing. The first pitch heads up right into a right leaning ramp/chimney system. The climb is easily noticeable by the last pitch with the crazy stemming roof.

Descent:
Belay each other right (north) about 20m across the loose summit scree to a 2 ringbolt anchor and rap Nutman in 2 50m raps. Beware of getting your rope knot stuck at the first station. Make sure the rope knot is over the edge.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Trad rack: cams to 4" (minimum 1 of each #3 & #4 camalot, but you wouldn't mind 2 #4's), nuts, slings.

We took doubles to #3 camalot, a single new style #4 and an old style #4.5. The #4.5 was placed about 4 feet below the final fixed pin so not entirely necessary, but it makes you feel warm and fuzzy inside.

Photos

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Pretty fun.

The rack suggestion seems like overkill, I think singles up to 4" is quite adequate. There are not many placements to be found, and other than fixed pins, I never placed more than 3 pieces until the last pitch. This is the one spot where a second 4" or a 4.5" could be nice.

There is a good rap line a short distance to climber's left, starting on a slab, using 4 ring anchors. I used a 70 which reached easily, McClane says a 60 is a stretch. Aug 28, 2013

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