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Routes in Orient Point

Joker, The WI3
Real Big Drip WI6 M8
Type: Mixed, Ice, 800 ft, 5 pitches, Grade V
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,564 total · 31/month
Shared By: Dave Rone on Jan 2, 2014
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

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Description

A magnificent line that you can't miss as you drive into the Ghost. It seems to form up every year, but with subtle differences, usually to the first ice pitch. Note: The lower ice on the first pitch occasionally falls down, so if the ice isn't hanging nearly to the lowest prominent roof, don't bother with the route. The bolts will end before you can get to the ice.

Pitch 1, 30m, M8 (bolted). Overhanging for all but the first 5m, it has gotten harder as features have broken off. Finding good holds is difficult and strenuous, and it seems that when the tools are good the feet are bad, and vice versa. There are, however, some bomber holds every few meters where you can catch your breath and shake out. Belay off ice or a bolted station depending on how the ice is formed.

Pitch 2 , 40m, WI5/6. A great ice pitch that comes in differently from year to year. Some years it is straightforward, other years it can sport some big overhangs. Climb to a bolted station at the top of the ice

Pitch 3, 40m, M7+ (bolted). Starts up left of the bolted station, works through a small overhang (crux) and then traverses up and right on cool rock features to a bolted belay behind the ice curtain.

Pitch 4, 35m, WI5+. Makes an exciting transition onto the ice curtain and then up to the ice ramp above.

Pitch 5, 50m, WI5. A long pitch of steep ice.

Location

From the bottom of the Big Hill, cross the flats to a well defined road that takes you straight south to Orient Point, and a track that follows a cut-line steeply up the hill to the right. Park here.

Hike up the track for 10-15 minutes to an obvious flat, clearing on the right. Continue about 100 m and look for a well defined (horse?) trail heading left. There are a couple small burned-trunk aspens to the left of the trail and a bigger one with a (+) blazed on it to the right (see photo). Follow the trail through the forest and down into the Joker/Hooker drainage. Continue up the streambed a couple hundred meters, then go left at the intersection of the RBD drainage. It’s best to hike the banks of the drainage as much as possible, crossing it several times. When the drainage ends, work your way up and slightly left through some sketchy rock bands to the route. (Note: when hiking out, definitely easier and safer to rappel the rock bands).

Anywhere from 1.5 to 3 hours, depending on snow conditions.

Protection

Both rock pitches are bolted, as are the belay stations. Take 15 draws as well as some long runners, along with 12-15 screws. 70m ropes will get you down in three rappels, stay to the climbers left. First rappel from the top (v-thread) of the ice to the ramp. Second (v-thread) goes to the bolts at the top of pitch 2. Third to the ground. Use caution when passing hanging daggers.
Dave Rone
Eau Claire, Wis
 
Dave Rone   Eau Claire, Wis  
 
Climbed the route on 3/9/16 and aside from a couple loose hangers, the bolts are good. Be cool if someone brings a wrench up and gives those nuts some turns. Feb 16, 2016
dirtbag
Bellingham, WA
dirtbag   Bellingham, WA
any idea what condition the bolts are in? Feb 12, 2016

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