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Routes in Orient Point

Joker, The WI3
Real Big Drip WI6 M8
Type: Mixed, Ice, 800 ft, 5 pitches, Grade V
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,491 total, 31/month
Shared By: Dave Rone on Jan 2, 2014
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

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Description

A magnificent line that you can't miss as you drive into the Ghost. It seems to form up every year, but with subtle differences, usually to the first ice pitch. Note: if the first pitch ice isn't hanging nearly to lowest prominent roof, don't bother with the route. The bolts will end before you can get to the ice.

Pitch 1, 30m, M8 (bolted). It is dead vertical to overhanging, and has gotten harder as features have broken off. Finding good holds is difficult and strenuous, and it seems that when the tools are good the feet are bad, and vice versa. There are, however, some bomber holds every few meters where you can catch your breath and shake out. Belay off ice or a bolted station depending on how the ice is formed.

Pitch 2 , 40m, WI5/6. A great ice pitch that comes in differently from year to year. Some years it is straightforward, other years it can sport some big overhangs. Climb to a bolted station at the top of the ice

Pitch 3, 40m, M8- (bolted). Starts up left of the bolted station, works through a small overhang (crux) and then traverses up and right on cool rock features to a bolted belay behind the ice curtain.

Pitch 4, 35m, WI5+. Makes an exciting transition onto the ice curtain and then up to the ice ramp above.

Pitch 5, 50m, WI5. A long pitch of steep ice.

Location

From the bottom of the Big Hill, cross the flats to a well defined road that takes you straight south to Orient Point, and a track that follows a cut-line up a small hill to the right. Park here.

Hike up the track for 10-15 minutes to what is sometimes a parking area, then diagaonal left through the trees until you intersect the top of the Joker/Hooker drainage (20 min). Hike along the top until you find the slope reasonable to descend. Continue up the streambed, then go left at the intersection of the RBD drainage.

Eventually leave the drainage and hike up left through a couple small rock bands to the base of the route.

Anywhere from 1.5 to 3 hours, depending on snow conditions.

Protection

Both rock pitches are bolted, as are the belay stations. Take 15 draws as well as some long runners, along with 12-15 screws. 70m ropes will get you down in three rappels, stay to the climbers left. First rappel from the top (v-thread) of the ice to the ramp. Second (v-thread) goes to the bolts at the top of pitch 2. Third to the ground. Use caution when passing hanging daggers.
Dave Rone
Eau Claire, Wis
 
Dave Rone   Eau Claire, Wis  
 
Climbed the route on 3/9/16 and aside from a couple loose hangers, the bolts are good. Be cool if someone brings a wrench up and gives those nuts some turns. Feb 16, 2016
dirtbag
Bellingham, WA
dirtbag   Bellingham, WA
any idea what condition the bolts are in? Feb 12, 2016