Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Mixed, Ice, 800 ft, 5 pitches, Grade V|
|Page Views:||2,331 total · 29/month|
|Shared By:||Dave Rone on Jan 2, 2014|
|Admins:||Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra|
Pitch 1, 30m, M8 (bolted). Overhanging for all but the first 5m, it has gotten harder as features have broken off. Finding good holds is difficult and strenuous, and it seems that when the tools are good the feet are bad, and vice versa. There are, however, some bomber holds every few meters where you can catch your breath and shake out. Belay off ice or a bolted station depending on how the ice is formed.
Pitch 2 , 40m, WI5/6. A great ice pitch that comes in differently from year to year. Some years it is straightforward, other years it can sport some big overhangs. Climb to a bolted station at the top of the ice
Pitch 3, 40m, M7+ (bolted). Starts up left of the bolted station, works through a small overhang (crux) and then traverses up and right on cool rock features to a bolted belay behind the ice curtain.
Pitch 4, 35m, WI5+. Makes an exciting transition onto the ice curtain and then up to the ice ramp above.
Pitch 5, 50m, WI5. A long pitch of steep ice.
Hike up the track for 10-15 minutes to an obvious flat, clearing on the right. Continue about 100 m and look for a well defined (horse?) trail heading left. There are a couple small burned-trunk aspens to the left of the trail and a bigger one with a (+) blazed on it to the right (see photo). Follow the trail through the forest and down into the Joker/Hooker drainage. Continue up the streambed a couple hundred meters, then go left at the intersection of the RBD drainage. It’s best to hike the banks of the drainage as much as possible, crossing it several times. When the drainage ends, work your way up and slightly left through some sketchy rock bands to the route. (Note: when hiking out, definitely easier and safer to rappel the rock bands).
Anywhere from 1.5 to 3 hours, depending on snow conditions.