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Routes in Orient Point - North

Wicked Wanda T WI4+
Type: Trad, Ice, 180 ft, Grade II
FA: Kevin Doyle, Geof Powter Winter 82/83
Page Views: 407 total, 7/month
Shared By: Dave Rone on Mar 2, 2013
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

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Description

As you approach the route, it will be obvious where the crux is . . . at the top! It will be wise to check out potential lines through the top as early as you can.

Start by climbing 25m of WI4 ice to a big ledge about half way up. There is a bolted anchor in the back, but it may be covered. Either set up a belay here, or continue on. Depending on the season, the ice and the finish on the second-half of the route will vary considerably. Climb another 30m or so up to and through the overhangs that usually form at the top. There is a bolted station to the climbers left on top.

Location

Wicked Wanda is the nearest route to the parking area, and lies on the south side of the Devil's Gap. It's an easy 45 minute approach.

Start by hiking west on the dirt track road from the parking area. After about 10 minutes, head south through trees to the drainage. Continue up the drainage to a short ice step. Either climb the step or go up the loose scree slope on the left and then back right to the base of the route.

You'll be able to see the route early in the approach, but not again until you get a ways up the drainage.

Protection

Screws for pro, bolted stations half-way and at the top. If you finish on the right side you can rappel from a v-thread or move over to the bolted station on the left.

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