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Elevation: 9,000 ft 2,743 m
GPS: 40.3234, -105.5331
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Page Views: 69,630 total · 443/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jul 6, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description Suggest change

This is a pleasant set of fairly short cliffs that lie on our National Forest land offering some pleasant moderates protected mostly with bolts. Some of the rock here is fairly atypical for the area with at least one section with interesting, wavy huecos on granite. The rock reminds you of some of the Ironclads in spots (on the upper cliff) and also some of the south and west faces in the Flatirons or even some of the less steep rock of Red River Gorge (on the middle cliff). The rock is still somewhat friable in spots even though these routes have been in for a few years, so be prepared. You can access some of the anchors from above, if you so desire. These are good crags for kids and families; however, the smallest of kids may not be able to climb the bolted lines.

Some of the developers of these crags include Rich Perch, Dan Hare, Tom Kohlman, Roland Fortin, Chris Reveley, Susan Day, Roger Truesdale, Byron Prinzmetal, Deb Thompson, Dave Rogers, and Jackie Paik. Thanks!

Thank you, Rich, for helping start to update this information!

Since it is just off a relatively popular low-end hiking trail up Lily Mt (2 miles, 1000' gain), you will get some non-climber questions like "how did you get the rope up there?" Still, for a change of pace, short approach, or after work relaxation, you may find this worth the effort.

On a foreward thinking note, the parking area for Lily Mountain's hiking trail is a crowded, roadside parking area. Please, please do your best to be reasonable with climber - non-climber interactions so as not to jeopardize our access to these crags. Also, it is to avoid conflicts with land usage, it's probably wisest to avoid bolting in plain sight of the trail.

If you have more information, please contact me and I can update this incomplete data. Thanks!

Getting There Suggest change

There are 2 approaches to these crags:

A. The most straightforward is to park at the Lily Mt. trailhead which lies on CO 7 just north of Lily Lake and south of Estes Park. The parking is roadside. The hike is largely flat for ~3/4 mile. Just after a S-shaped set of switchbacks and then a Z-shaped set of switchbacks, the uphill-most cliff appears just feet away from the trail.

B. (now closed) The other approach involves following a trail (formerly bushwhacking) along a section that was cleared for fire mitigation. Park shortly after mile marker 5. There are 2 small pullouts. The first is on the east side of the road. The second (smaller) is on the west side. Hike up shortly west of the east parking pullout just past a yellow left curve sign. If you get to a rockcut, you've gone too far south. Hike up perhaps 300 vertical feet to the crags. You will see My Grain Headache as you get closer.

This is the uphill-most crag, and it lies just downhill from the trail.

36 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lily Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 27
Manly Bulge
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 17
Streak of Bad Luck
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 38
A Coarse Line
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 41
The Buckets Stop Here
Sport, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 28
Burnin' Rubber
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 29
Atrophied Husband
Sport, TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 38
Show Me The Monkey
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
Birthday Boy
TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 28
Chokin' the Chickenhead
Sport, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 16
Trophy Wife
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Manly Bulge Quickie Cliff
 27
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Streak of Bad Luck Quickie Cliff
 17
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
A Coarse Line Slamdance Buttress
 38
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Buckets Stop Here Crag of Fear
 41
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Burnin' Rubber Crag of Fear
 28
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Atrophied Husband Quickie Cliff
 29
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Show Me The Monkey Slamdance Buttress
 38
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Birthday Boy Crag of Fear
 9
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
Chokin' the Chickenhead Quickie Cliff
 28
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Trophy Wife Quickie Cliff
 16
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Lily Mountain »

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