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Routes in Quickie Cliff

Ascent of a Woman T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Atrophied Husband S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Casual Six T,S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chokin' the Chickenhead S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Luck of the Draw S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Manly Bulge S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nooner or Later S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Night Stand S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pickup Line S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Streak of Bad Luck S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trophy Wife S,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: Dan Hare, Rich Perch, 8/20/11
Page Views: 140 total, 2/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on May 10, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a line between Streak of Bad Luck and Chokin' the Chickenhead that is as thin as it looks...and maybe more.

The start is thin and crumbly right after you get established. (I'm told that the line was changed in the interim and is more direct.) Aim for a hole, the last good hold for a while. Fight, scratch, and kick to keep moving upward. Staying right, at times, all you seem to get is two marginal undercling pinches. Staying left slightly, you may suss out some slightly better options. Finally, on the last third of the route, you get some positive holds. Finish at the anchors.

Previously, it appears that someone may have considered equipping it with bolts, since there is at least 1 drilled hole on the route. Now it sports bolts.

Rich Perch rated this 5.10.

Location

This is between Streak of Bad Luck and Chokin' the Chickenhead. This is the 4th bolted route from the right.

Protection

This route now sports 5 bolts and now its own anchors. Clip 'em or TR it. Originally, this shared anchors with Streak of Bad Luck.

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