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Routes in Quickie Cliff

Ascent of a Woman T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Atrophied Husband S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Casual Six T,S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chokin' the Chickenhead S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Luck of the Draw S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Manly Bulge S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nooner or Later S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Night Stand S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pickup Line S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Streak of Bad Luck S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trophy Wife S,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Elevation: 9,000 ft
GPS: 40.323, -105.533 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 7,166 total, 92/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jul 13, 2011 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

This is the lower crag of this set. It sports some very low angle slab climbs and at least 8 short, slightly steeper sport climbs.

It winds up being pretty close to the road, but you don't hear much road noise. Also, this crag winds up being far enough away from the trail that you don't get some of those "how did you get the rope up there?" questions. These routes face east and southeast. They can drop into the shade in the afternoon. Some of the bases can be shaded by trees.

The slab routes can be set up with extra long slings and a few cams for young beginner leaders.

Getting There

There are 2 approaches to these crags:

A. The most straightforward is to park at the Lily Mt. trailhead which lies on CO 7 just north of Lily Lake and south of Estes Park. The parking is roadside. The hike is largely flat for ~3/4 mile. Just after a S-shaped set of switchbacks, you will arrive at a Z-shaped set of switchbacks. Rather than taking these switchbacks up the hill to Crag of Fear, leave the main trail and follow a climber's trail 100 yards to the left side of Quickie Cliff.

B. The other approach involves following a distinct trail along a section that was cleared for fire mitigation. Park 1/4 mile after mile marker 5. There are 2 small pullouts. The first is on the east side of the road. The second (smaller) is on the west side. Hike up shortly west of the east parking pullout just past a yellow left curve sign. If you get to a rockcut, you've gone too far south. Hike up perhaps 300 vertical feet to the crags. You will see My Grain Headache as you get closer.

This is the lowest (or third below approach A) crag, and it lies maybe 120 yards downhill from the trail.

L->R:

Quickie Cliff Lower

A. Hand Solo, 0, 1p.
B. Fragile Flakes, 5, 1p, 45', TR.
CD. Four Play var., 4, 1p, 45', bolts & gear.
D. Casual Six , 5-6, 1p, 45', bolts & gear.
E. Three Way, 3, 1p, 50', gear.
F. Pickup Line, 7 or 8, 1p, 45', bolts or TR.
G. Ascent of a Woman, 6-8, 1p, 45', bolts & gear.

gully

Quickie Cliff Left

H. One Night Stand, 10- or 10, 1p, 25', bolts.
I. Nooner or Later , 7-8, 1p, 25', bolts.

Quickie Cliff Center

J. Luck of the Draw , 8-9, 1p, 25', bolts.
K. Streak of Bad Luck , 8-9, 1p, 30', bolts.

Quickie Cliff Right

L. Trophy Wife, 11-, 1p, 40', bolts or TR.
M. Chokin' the Chickenhead, 10, 1p, 40', bolts.
N. Atrophied Husband, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
O. Manly Bulge, 6-7, 1p, 50', bolts.

11 Total Climbs

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