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Routes in Crag of Fear

Birthday Boy TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buckets Stop Here, The S,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burnin' Rubber S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Guano a Guano T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mocha T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Smokin' Joints S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tibble TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tiptoe Through The Two Lips S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unemployment Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Who's Nailin' Palin S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elevation: 9,000 ft
GPS: 40.324, -105.535 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 5,683 total, 72/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jul 6, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

This is the upper crag that abuts the Lily Mountain trail at ~3/4 mile from the trailhead. It is a good crag for kids and families; however, the smallest of kids may not be able to climb the bolted lines.

The rock here is reminiscent somewhat of that found in the Ironclads at Mt. Boner and Ironsides.

The routes here are short, 45' at most.

These routes get morning and midday sun. Despite the altitude, they can cook.

There is certainly room for additional development as more recent routes noted on its northern side of the east face; however, it would be prudent to minimize development with proximity to the trail.

Thank you, Rich, for helping update the information!

Getting There

There are 2 approaches to these crags:

A. The most straightforward is to park at the Lily Mt trailhead which lies on CO 7 just north of Lily Lake and south of Estes Park. The parking is roadside. The hike is largely flat for ~3/4 mile. Just after a S-shaped set of switchbacks and then a Z-shaped set of switchbacks, the uphill-most cliff appears just feet away from the trail.

B. The other approach involves following a faint trail or slight bushwhacking along a section that was cleared for fire mitigation. Park shortly after mile marker 5. There are 2 small pullouts. The first is on the east side of the road. The second (smaller) is on the west side. Hike up shortly west of the east parking pullout just past a yellow left curve sign. If you get to a rockcut, you've gone too far south. Hike up perhaps 300 vertical feet to the crags. You will see My Grain Headache as you get closer.

L->R:

South face

A. Tibble, 10, 1p. 35', TR.

East face

B. Unemployment Line, 8 PG-13 - 9, 1p, 35', bolts.
C. Tiptoe Through The Two Lips, 9, 1p, 40', bolts.
D. Guano a Guano, 6, 1p, 45', gear.
E. Who's Nailin' Palin, 7-8, 1p, 45', bolts or TR.
F. The Buckets Stop Here, 10- - 10, 1p, 40', bolts or TR.
G. Burnin' Rubber, 10, 1p, 40', bolts.
H. Birthday Boy, 10, 1p, 40', TR.
IJ. SmokinÂ’ Joints, 10, 1p, bolts or TR.
J. Mocha, 9+ PG-13, 1p, 40', gear.

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