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Routes in Slamdance Buttress

A Coarse Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Anchor Management S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blood Feud S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Coors Flake S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Follow the Hare T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Lap Dance S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
My Grain Headache S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rush Limbo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Show Me The Monkey S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sitting Duck S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slam Dunk S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squiggles T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Standing Ovation S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tap Dance S,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Western Swing S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elevation: 9,000 ft
GPS: 40.324, -105.534 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 6,615 total, 85/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jul 6, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

This is an interesting chunk of rock. Its west face has some atypical stone in that it has waves, huecos, and bulges in a short, 40 foot vertical. It is reminiscent of some of the west and south faces in the Flatirons and some of the vertical rock in Red River Gorge. The base of some of the routes is a bit friable, so a spot may be in order.

Some of these routes on the west face may be doable for mid-sized kids and taller. The steeper nature of these west face routes may thwart smaller kids.

There are at least 6 routes it its west face, one on its southern edge, and low angle east face options here as well. There may be more routes than listed here.

Getting There

There are 2 approaches to these crags:

A. The most straightforward is to park at the Lily Mt. trailhead which lies on CO 7 just north of Lily Lake and south of Estes Park. The parking is roadside. The hike is largely flat for ~3/4 mile. Just after a S-shaped set of switchbacks and then a Z-shaped set of switchbacks, the uphill-most cliff appears just feet away from the trail.

B. The other approach involves following a faint trail or slight bushwhacking along a section that was cleared for fire mitigation. Park shortly after mile marker 5. There are 2 small pullouts. The first is on the east side of the road. The second (smaller) is on the west side. Hike up shortly west of the east parking pullout just past a yellow left curve sign. If you get to a rockcut, you've gone too far south. Hike up perhaps 300 vertical feet to the crags. You will see My Grain Headache as you get closer.

This is the second uphill-most crag, and it lies maybe 50 yards downhill from the trail.

L->R:

Actually, a left->right doesn't quite make sense for this crag.

Slamdance Buttress (West face)

A. Project (No More Mr. Gneiss Guy), 9?, to be bolted.
B. Anchor Management, 8, 1p, 30', bolts.

C. Slam Dunk, 9, 1p, 25', bolts.
D. Coors Flake, 9+ or 10, 1p, 25', bolts.
E. Standing Ovation, 8+ or 9, 1p, 25', bolts.
F. Sitting Duck, 10, 1p, 25', bolts.

G. Tap Dance, 8-9, 1p, 1p, 25', bolts.
H. Lap Dance, 8- or 8, 1p, 25', bolts.
I. Blood Feud, 9+ or 10, 1p, 35', bolts.
J. Western Swing, 9 or 10, 1p, 35', bolts.

K. A Coarse Line, 9 or 10, 1p, 35', bolts.
L. Show Me The Monkey, 10, 1p, 40', bolts.
M. Rush Limbo, 6, 8, or 9, 1p, 35', bolts.

East face

N. My Grain Headache, 8, 1p, ~30', bolts.
O. Squiggles, 5 PG-13, 1p, 100', gear.
P. Follow the Hare, 5 R, 1p, 80', gear.

15 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Slamdance Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Show Me The Monkey
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Show Me The Monkey 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
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