Elevation: 6,625 ft
GPS: 35.12, -111.935 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 45,987 total · 371/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Sep 21, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

The North Side is the stunning spread of columns and corners on the typically sunny side of the canyon. Being south facing, the climbing season is a bit shorter due to the heat of the summer, though spring and fall temperatures are excellent.

Currently most of the routes are in the moderate to 5.11 range, with several long 5.10s that are often regarded as heroic climbs. The list of 5.12s is starting to grow, however. Also home of the proud Unema testpiece, "Surviving the Times, 13+/14- R", likely Volunteer's hardest.

The majority of the North Side currently is separated into seven main walls. From one zone to the next is generally short sections of very poor quality and loose rock that most likely have never had climbing routes.

From east to west (as one would approach from FR527) or Right to Left as viewed from the South Side:

*People's Court and Couples Wall short walls just as the canyon starts.

*Tralfamadore Wall - holds some of the longest and cleanest of moderates at Volunteer, including Beautiful Day (5.8) and its namesake. Identifying landmark of the area is the Tralfamador roof, which you get a glimpse of when walking the rim.

*The Middle Ages - the stretch of routes that reside in the middle of the North Side. One identifying landmark when viewed from the South Side is the furthest west dark brown and black stains between Bertilak and Green Knight.

*Cwm Laude Wall - Unfairly dwarfed by the height of the rest of the wall, this wall currently holds high quality routes in the 60-80ft range (taller than Paradise Forks' Pillow Wall for perspective). This is the bright yellow, columnar basalt your eyes would be drawn to when viewed from the South Side. One identifying feature for the start of the wall, frankly, is the large white bird poo stain near the lip, under an A-frame.

*The Hobel Wall - just past the dubious super marios type columnar step stones from the Cwm Laude Wall is a wall more reminiscent of Paradise Forks, which currently only has a couple of documented routes.

The descriptions for individual areas identify landmarks on the rim to help you locate them and the tops of the routes. With either side of the canyon, if its your first time, one method to identify routes is to send your partner on the other side and guide them to the tops, using the overview pictures.

Getting There

You can park off the main road, or park on the South Side and it is a short walk around.

79 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at North Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
King John
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 6
Rock Quarriers Way
Trad, TR 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 20
Tralfamadore
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 8
Studio 54
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 4
Ratrastard
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 20
Lost Highway
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Covid Spike
Trad, TR 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 8
White Hawk
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 17
Green Knight
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 9
Bertilak
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 7
Carnwennan
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
Gnarnian Renaissance
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
Ghost Train
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 6
Edge of an Age
Trad 2 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 3
Starman
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
King John 4. The Shield
 3
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Rock Quarriers Way 5. Tralfamadore Wall
 6
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, TR 2 pitches
Tralfamadore 5. Tralfamadore Wall
 20
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Studio 54 5. Tralfamadore Wall
 8
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Ratrastard 8. The Hobel Wall
 4
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Lost Highway 5. Tralfamadore Wall
 20
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Covid Spike 5. Tralfamadore Wall
 5
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR 2 pitches
White Hawk 6. The Middle Ages
 8
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Green Knight 6. The Middle Ages
 17
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Bertilak 6. The Middle Ages
 9
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Carnwennan 6. The Middle Ages
 7
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Gnarnian Renaissance 6. The Middle Ages
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Ghost Train 7. Cwm Laude Wall
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Edge of an Age 6. The Middle Ages
 6
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad 2 pitches
Starman 6. The Middle Ages
 3
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in North Side »

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