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Routes in Tralfamadore Wall

22 Bottles of Queer on the Wall T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beautiful Day T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beyond Nuts! T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hop Knot T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost Highway T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shield, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Studio 54 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tralfamadore T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Larry Coats, Dugald Bremner 1976
Page Views: 1,393 total · 14/month
Shared By: Larry Coats on Sep 25, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

As mentioned in the intro, Tralfamador climbs the obvious orange-stained cracks that lead to the square-cut, right-facing corner/roof in the middle of the North Side crag. Begin by scrambling or rappelling to the broken ledge below the leaning block at the start of the route.

Pitch 1: (5.9+) Easy climbing ascends the leaning block and double corner cracks above. The cracks converge, then difficulty arises as the orange rock appears. A few moves of thin tips crack (originally protected with a piton) lead to a foothold stance with anchor arranged from small to medium pieces, or step left and belay from the wider crack below the roof.

Pitch 2: (5.9+). Need you ask? Step over to the corner below the roof, then undercling to the lip and crank over to the wider crack above. Easier climbing (5.8) leads to the rim.

Note: The entire climb can be done as a single pitch, but requires some clever work with runners to avoid rope drag over the roof section.

Protection

A normal rack of cams and wires, with a couple of wider cams (4-5") for the roof. The climb was originally led with passive gear and one angle piton near the end of the first pitch.

Photos

JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Tralfamadore is a distant planet in the semi science fiction classic "Slaughterhouse Five", by the legendary Kurt Vonnegut. On Tralfamadore, the protagonist, Billy Pilgrim is locked away with a human female prostitute in the local zoo.... Tralfamadorians can see back wards and forwards in time much the way we see distance. So it goes. Nov 30, 2013
Robbie Brown
the road
 
Robbie Brown   the road
 
This thing is rad! Dec 8, 2014
Jed Alan  
 
Do this in a single pitch using a 60m rope and artful runner work and the rope drag will be ok. Borrow the last finger crack section of Studio 54 after getting through the roof for the ultimate stellar line. This climb is sustained at its grade and a true N. Az old school 5.9+ (means its hard for 5.9). All that said, in my opinion, this is a Northern Arizona Classic. Feb 11, 2018

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