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Routes in Tralfamadore Wall

22 Bottles of Queer on the Wall T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beautiful Day T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hop Knot T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost Highway T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shield, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Studio 54 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tralfamadore T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad
FA: Geoff Parker, Scott Baxter (early '70s)
Page Views: 181 total, 2/month
Shared By: Larry Coats on Sep 25, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Although a bit obscure, this route climbs the clean, left-facing dihedral three cracks west (left looking over from the South Side) of Tralfamador. Approach from below, or rappel to the light-colored, slabby rock directly below the corner.

Pitch 1: The start of the climb is a bit dicey due to some detached flakes at the start. Cautiously work past the flakes until solid gear is reached in the arching corner above. Some more difficult, but well-protected climbing ascends the short corner to a ledge (alternative belay spot). Continue up the delightful corner above (5.8)- some of the nicest climbing at the Cwm!


A normal rack of cams and wires. The upper dihedral is mostly hand-sized.


I recall this as being quite fun. Sep 27, 2010