Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Middle Ages

Arbalest T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bertilak T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Book of Wasps T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Edge of an Age T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gnarnian Renaissance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Green Knight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Guy in the Gulley T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Morning Star T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trebuchet T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Turn the Page T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Handed Flail T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
White Hawk T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Trevor Bowman 4/6/16
Page Views: 56 total, 13/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Jul 17, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

An arbalest was a variation of heavy crossbow, which was a weapon commonly used throughout the Middle Ages. It was essentially a compact, single-operator version of the much older ballista, a siege weapon sometimes called a "bolt thrower". Arbalest was also apparently sometimes used to refer to a crossbowman. Since I'm a contemporary bolt-throwing Bowman (sometimes cross), I liked the name. Thank you Wikipedia!

As for the climb, it tackles the black, water-stained, left-facing dihedral immediately left of Bertilak's pillar. Rap off assorted small junipers/pines to a small foot-ledge atop a large hollow block and a 2 bolt anchor. The lower corner is somewhat awkward with some devious, spaced gear, but is relatively mellow (5.9/10- ish).

From a small shelf, the climbing gets much better and more engaging as you launch up the steeper crux corner past 2 bolts and some small gear. This stretch really favors taller climbers, as there is some reach between the sparse features that allow it to go at the grade; however, it is mostly stemming, and should still manageable at a higher difficulty for shorties. The rock is stellar.

Location

Use Darren's directions to locate the top of Bertilak. Arbalest is in the black corner immediately climber's left (west).

Protection

2 bolts, (1X) gray #000 C3- #4 C4 Camalot. 2 bolt belay anchor at start.

Photos

0 Comments