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Areas in Hayden Peak

Aces High Tower 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 4
Eddie's High Somewhere 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 3
Estwing Crag, The 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Iron Hayden Wall 10 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13 / 13
Most Excellent Crag, The 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 2
Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Hayden Peak is located on the Mirror Lake Highway. It is the unmistakeable peak that dominates the view to the East from Bald Mountain Pass. No hiking trail exists according to the Forest Service. The South Ridge seems to be the most used route to the summit and may be the Uintas best day hike. Expect lots of 4th class scrambling, some of it may be exposed depending on the route taken.

Getting There

Park at the Highline Trailhead in the Hikers parking lot. Locate a climbers trail to the northeast of the bathrooms. There is a tall twin tree stump that is visible from the parking lot looking to the east. This is your trail marker. Follow this trail through the forest alternating between traversing to the north and climbing up to the east. At treeline head up a shallow gully that is often snow covered until mid-summer. When the gully steepens, look for cairns and a trail heading north and switchbacking a few times before continueing its northward traverse. Cross a wide couloir and follow a rough trail up its left side, at the top head north across a short boulder field and onto a ledge system that traverses the west face. Make your way up to the cliffs. 1 hour approach.

Climbing

In my opinion Hayden Peak is home to some of the best multi-pitch climbing in the Uintas. There is a lot of adventure to be had in a very nice setting. This is a summertime crag to be sure. Climbing on the multi-pitch routes in anything but the nicest weather can be a chilly experience for the unprepared.

A few notes on Hayden Peak climbing.

  • Bring a rack. There are not many pure sport climbs. Even routes that appear fully bolted may require some gear. A good rack for most routes would be a purple TCU to a #3 camalot and small to medium nuts. A few more gear intensive routes exist and a double rack to a #2camalot plus a #4camalot would be more appropriate.
  • Most routes are adequately bolted and/or protected for the leader comfortable at the respective grade.
  • Generally speaking, the climbing difficulty tops out at 5.11+, with many routes in the 5.10 range.
  • 1 60m rope should suffice for most routes. But be careful and pay attention because many routes where put up using a 70m rope and a few 2 rope rappels do exist.

23 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Hayden Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Easy Snow
 8
Stairway to Hayden
Trad, Snow, Alpine
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 9
Killers
Trad, Alpine
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 15
Aces High
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
The Title Track
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 40
Where Vultures Dare
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Ruby
Trad, Alpine
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 17
Beer Mule
Trad, Alpine
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Holy Smoke
Sport, Alpine
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
King of Twilight
Trad, Alpine
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
B.O.D
Trad, Alpine
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
The Evil That Men Do
Sport, Alpine
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 25
Sun & Steel
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 13
Run To The Hills
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 5
Ziggy Piggy
Sport, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Stairway to Hayden Iron Hayden Wall
 8
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Easy Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
Killers Iron Hayden Wall
 9
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine
Aces High Aces High Tower
 15
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
The Title Track Eddie's High Somewhere
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Where Vultures Dare Iron Hayden Wall
 40
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Ruby Aces High Tower
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine
Beer Mule Iron Hayden Wall
 17
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine
Holy Smoke Iron Hayden Wall
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, Alpine
King of Twilight Iron Hayden Wall
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Alpine
B.O.D Iron Hayden Wall
 4
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Alpine
The Evil That Men Do Iron Hayden Wall
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, Alpine
Sun & Steel Iron Hayden Wall
 25
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Run To The Hills Iron Hayden Wall
 13
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Ziggy Piggy Most Excellent Crag
 5
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport, Alpine
More Classic Climbs in Hayden Peak »

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drock3  
The Highline trailhead has two sections to park in, an upper and a lower. the two parking lots are only separated by a few hundred feet, but the stump mentioned above is easily visible from the upper parking lot and not particularly visible from the lower. To get to the upper, take the right fork of the road after turning into the highline trailhead.

If you're in the lower parking lot, head to the bathrooms, then head due south to find the tree stump. Once you're on the trail it's super easy to follow. Jul 13, 2015
Kudos to the crew who laid out the approach trail, it weaves through many obstacles without any sketchy terrain. When in doubt on the way through the forest part take the left option. Many cairns show the way. Aug 6, 2018

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