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Routes in Iron Hayden Wall

B.O.D T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Beer Mule T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Evil That Men Do, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
King of Twilight T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Run To The Hills T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Runnin' Free T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stairway to Hayden T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Easy Snow
Sun & Steel T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Where Vultures Dare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: FA: Craig Martin, Eric Salmi, Julia Salmi, Dave Littman 2008
Page Views: 2,505 total, 61/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Aug 4, 2014 with updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

A great one pitch cragging or 3 pitch adventure route.

Pitch 1: (5.10a, 90') Pull the low crux at bolt 1 and follow great edges to a 2 bolt anchor. Gear is required in the horizontals between the bolts and at the top.

Pitch 2: Steep start to the climbers’ right of the belay using cryptic moves (5.10) past 3 bolts leads to a ledge with a large block on its left side. Continue up and slightly right utilizing some gear placements and heading for the bolts. Climb up the very cool, steep face using liebacks and crimps as the moves get harder. The climbing stays pretty sustained past 10 or so bolts before easing off and rambling up a short corner (5.7, #1 camalot) to a belay ledge with 2 bolt anchor (2 ropes needed for descent). 5.11a, 130’.

Pitch 3: Climb up and right to a shallow left facing dihedral. Unlock the sequence to get into the dihedral (5.10a). Follow bolts and a few gear placements up to a narrow ledge system. Pull up onto the ledge and move to the left, then up a steep face to a fingers to hands splitter. Continue up this crack to a roof with a bolt and faux chimney above. Finesse your way into this chimney of awkwardness (5.11b) and continue up passing a small roof on the left. Finish at a 2 bolt anchor on a nice ledge at the top of the wall (No chains, rappel Sun & Steel). 5.11b, 130’.

Rap with two ropes or rap Sun & Steel.

Location

This is the 3rd route with bolts to the left of Sun and Steel. The bolt hangers are painted yellow.

Protection

bolts and gear to #2 camalot...

Photos

Craig Martin
Park City
  5.11b
Craig Martin   Park City
  5.11b
Glad you liked the route. I like the bolts on the 3rd pitch and I don't remember the specifics of why we placed them where we did or why we did. It seemed appropriate at the time but they might not be necessary for a safe ascent of the route. I am sorry if they are offensive and if more people find them so.....then someone should pull them. It probably won't be me. Aug 6, 2017
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
Props to the FA team! A fine route indeed. I loved the naturally protected section on pitch 3- it holds the most memorable climbing on the entire Iron Hayden Wall! The small nut placements were so bomber! (Cams were useful too) If I may be permitted one bit of constructive criticism: the final two bolts and especially the last bolt to the left while exiting the "chimney of awkwardness" on pitch 3 seemed unessasarry and diminished the traditional value in that section for my partner and I... we felt solid gear was obvious. Would the FA team consider removing them? Again, gratitude and congratulations offered for creating such a fine route on such a fine wall;) Aug 6, 2017
Maynard
 
Maynard  
 
Pitch 3 felt more like 10c. Aug 2, 2017
Craig Martin
Park City
  5.11b
Craig Martin   Park City
  5.11b
Pitch 2: Aprox. 14 bolts. Aug 11, 2016
The first pitch is a total classic and also serves as a great warm up. Sep 28, 2014