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Routes in Iron Hayden Wall

B.O.D T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Beer Mule T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Evil That Men Do, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
King of Twilight T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Run To The Hills T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Runnin' Free T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stairway to Hayden T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Easy Snow
Sun & Steel T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Where Vultures Dare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jersey Dave Littman and Craig Rudy Martin 1992/2008
Page Views: 6,570 total, 143/month
Shared By: jersey on Feb 27, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Way back in ’92 I was a 24-year-old climbing keener with aspirations for unclimbed rock. Believing that if you just look a little farther than the last guy, the fruit is out there just waiting to be picked, and you know I’m right.
Well back in ’92, after a few recon trips. Craig Martin and I carried every piece of gear we owned at the time out to the Iron Hayden Wall, which probably wasn’t all that much stuff but surely included some slung hexes and a few pitons, but not a bolt kit at that time. As we approach the buttress it’s obvious that this wide crack system ascends the first half of the wall to a large ledge had what we were looking for. We roped up and I lead out the full 200-foot rope to the big ledge. The rock was solid and climbing was steep and more fun than scary. I belayed Craig up and he led up about 30 feet further before loose rock and the desire for bolt protection turned us around. Back on the belay ledge we pounded in a baby angle and fixed a nut. And equalized them with along piece of one inch webbing, not to return until we had more skills and bolts.
Flash forward 15 years 2008. The conversation goes like “Hey Craig, remember the Hayden Wall, I don’t think anyone’s been up there, do you? It’s about time we got a power drill and went back up there” “Yep your probably right”. So that’s what we did.
15 years seemed like yesterday. Back to the ledge, I haul up the drill kit and power in two nice bomber anchor bolts in the bulletproof quartzite and belayed Craig up. The original rappel anchor was still there the nut had some how fallen out, probably the wind, and was dangling from the piton at the end of the sun bleached webbing. There were no signs that anyone had visited this ledge in the last decade and a half.
Continuing on, the next pitch started out with the cleaning out of a stacked tower of rubble blocks which left behind a short but sweet steep 5.9 pitch with thin pro. Ending after about 50 feet on another nice ledge do to rope drag and loose rocks. Following the path of least resistance and trying to skirt around this huge roof overhead we headed straight left on the fourth pitch. Up easier ground into a cavy nook under the roof. The last pitch starts with a bouldery bolt-protected 5.10ish crux. Heading left up a steep inside corner with a loose blocky finish to the top of the buttress.
We rappelled the route installing the rest of the anchor stations on the way back down. We knew we had found something great. The walls all around us were featured and solid and looked like awesome climbing. Similar to the Gunks, but above tree-line at 11,000 feet, with lots of horizontal cracks, ledges and edges and roofs. This route would become the access point for the sheer faces all around us.

Location

The route is visible from the approach trail, starts 60 feet in from the right edge of the Iron Hayden Wall.

Protection

1 set of cams to 4 inch, 1 set of nuts, 1 200ft. rope
bolted anchors, rappel the route or walk off
jersey
park city, utah
 
jersey   park city, utah
 
We call that "The Icarus" variation. There is another bolted station up there before the top. Confirmed 5.8 trad, nothing extra needed. Oct 8, 2016
Alternate Finish

From the last bolted belay, traverse right and take weakness through roof. Then, straight up with all natural pro to summit anchors, 5.8.

Did this many moons ago with PC climber Craig Sherman. Jul 17, 2016
Aaron Saks
  5.9
Aaron Saks  
  5.9
Climbed today with near perfect conditions. It was recommended to start on Where Vultures Dare for pitch 1, then the 2nd pitch of Sun & Steel, 3rd pitch Beer Mule and the 4th pitch (last pitch) of Where Vultures Dare. Overall, this was an outstanding climb. Rock was great, protection was good, and bolts are placed in the right spots. We had the entire wall to ourselves.
Sep 13, 2015
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
I linked pitches 3&4 using what appears to be the upper Beer Mule variation - great pro thru the hard climbing (save a 2 camalot). Thanks for all the hard work and sharing. Curious if anyone has ventured up into the overhang? Aug 3, 2015
Craig Martin
Park City
  5.9
Craig Martin   Park City
  5.9
thehackattacks
Jun 27, 2015
Moving right to a small corner on pitch three (and avoiding the bolts off to the left) adds an extra, full-value crux section with thin pro. This route has fun moves on bomber rock from top to bottom!!

It should be noted that the crux mentioned above is not an extra crux, but "the crux" of the route as it was originally done on the FA. It was also the place that we stopped in 1992 and bailed because the protection was poor. In 2008 we went back and sent it with out adding any fixed gear. Jul 28, 2015
thehackattacks
Park City, UT
 
thehackattacks   Park City, UT
 
Moving right to a small corner on pitch three (and avoiding the bolts off to the left) adds an extra, full-value crux section with thin pro. This route has fun moves on bomber rock from top to bottom!! Jun 27, 2015