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Routes in Iron Hayden Wall

B.O.D T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Beer Mule T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Evil That Men Do, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
King of Twilight T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Run To The Hills T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Runnin' Free T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stairway to Hayden T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Easy Snow
Sun & Steel T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Where Vultures Dare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details


Iron Hayden Wall
This is the center piece of Hayden Peak climbing. After almost 15 years of climbing here and calling the area simply the Hayden Wall or the Red Wall we decided it really needed a proper name. Right around this time the video game Guitar Hero had just come out and it featured a song or two by Iron Maiden. Feeling inspired by the video game, Eric Salmi, a crag regular showed up one day and said maybe it is the Iron Hayden Wall. The name was more than appropriate and it stuck. Located in the center of the west face on the middle tier, this 400’ vertical wall may offer the Uintas best multi pitch climbing.

Getting There

Park at the Highline Trailhead in the hiker’s parking lot. From the parking lot, head east on a primitive trail that can be hard to find but exists to the north of the bathrooms and a good trail marker is a tall twin tree stump visible from the parking lot. This trail follows a poorly defined spur/ridge which avoids the wetlands to the north. Follow this trail east for a ¼ of a mile and then head northeast on a well traveled trail that alternates between traversing to the north and climbing to the east. It may be cairned and it traverses more than it climbs at this point. This path will lead past a few small meadows. Continue up and north until you are at tree line and below a series of chutes/avalanche paths sweeping down from the upper reaches of Hayden Peak. If you have followed the trail to here you should be in a clearing with several well positioned boulders. This is a good rest spot with a nice view of the wall. Begin up a shallow gully that is often snow covered until mid-summer. When the gully turns to loose scree and begins to steepen head to the left looking for a trail that switchbacks a few times before traversing to the left again. Cross a talus field and follow a rough climbers trail up the left side of a wide couloir. At the top of this couloir cross a boulder field and climb a short section of 3rd class to access the middle bench. Head north on the well cairned trail to the base of the Iron Hayden Wall.

1 hour approach


Morning shade, afternoon/evening sun. Multi-pitch climbing in an exposed location. Can be pretty windy/cold.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Iron Hayden Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Easy Snow
Stairway to Hayden
Trad, Snow, Alpine
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad, Alpine
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Where Vultures Dare
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beer Mule
Trad, Alpine
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
King of Twilight
Trad, Alpine
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
The Evil That Men Do
Sport, Alpine
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sun & Steel
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Run To The Hills
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Stairway to Hayden
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Easy Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine
Where Vultures Dare
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Beer Mule
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine
King of Twilight
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Alpine
The Evil That Men Do
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, Alpine
Sun & Steel
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Run To The Hills
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Iron Hayden Wall »

Weather Averages

Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season


Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
There are ~7 bolted/mixed routes to the left of "Sun and Steel". At least one of them has 3+ pitches and tops out to the left. Aug 4, 2014
Annie Smoot
Holladay, Utah
Annie Smoot   Holladay, Utah
Awesome trail. Super scenic, easy to find, cairns the whole way. Absolutely loved it Jul 12, 2015
It was so cold today. It was 86F in SLC, 60F or so and fairly comfy at the stone garden, and probably 40s at the crag. Very numb fingers. We're pretty soft, but there was a lot of bailing going on. We stayed around for 1 route.

The sun never came out for us (clouds that brought snow), it probably would have made the difference. The crag is almost directly west facing, so the sun doesn't come around the corner until about 2 pm.

Amazing climbing though. I'll definitely come back, I'll just wait for 100F in the valley and guaranteed sun ;) Jul 13, 2015
The whole wall doesnt get sun until 12:30 to 1ish depending on the time of year. In order to climb mulit pitch routes in comfort you will need to do a few things. Wear pants, long underwear, long sleeve shirt, belay gloves, hat, windbreaker (after the first pitch there is ALWAYS a constant wind) and wait until the wall gets in the sun on a sunny day. I would never climb in shorts here unless for cragging. If its too cold to get off the ground then there are quite a few routes at the base to crag from 5.8 to 11a, sport/mixed to trad. Bring a small rack if routes are looking run out..... Now "get some!" Jul 14, 2015
Derek West Newman
Salt Lake City, Utah
Derek West Newman   Salt Lake City, Utah
I left a handful of cams up there this past weekend. They have stickers with Castleton on them. Who has my cams? Give em up! Jul 27, 2015
Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
Definitely alpine - keep your helmet on and be aware of any parties above you and for looseness on the routes. Much of the rock is bomber but I saw several features that I don't think will be around to much longer. Aug 3, 2015

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