Bohuslan Rock Climbing
|GPS:||58.443, 11.501 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Todd Miller on Aug 7, 2010 · Updates|
|Admins:||Michael Sullivan, Gunkswest|
Bohuslan is a region along the west coast of Sweden, about 90 minutes drive north of Gothenburg (and two hours south of Oslo). There are hundreds of granite crags in the region with over 1,000 established climbs. There are great routes for all levels, but the place really shines for the 5.10 - 5.11 climber.
The rock in Bohuslan is extremely solid granite, with a beautiful rosy pink color. The climbing is mostly single pitch and the crags are scattered throughout the beautiful countryside. Most of the approaches are very short, and it is normal to visit more than one crag in a day.
May and June are optimum times to climb, but climbing can be comfortably done from at least May to October. The small town of Brodalen is arguably the center of the Bohsulan universe. The local climbing club is based there (they have formal meetings once per month), there's a small indoor climbing gym, and on any weekend during the climbing season, you'll find climbers coming and going from the small grocery store in town (which sells the local guidebook and some climbing gear).
On rest days/rainy days, check out quaint seacoast villages in the region and the World Heritage Site just north - the Bronze Age rock carvings at Tanum.
Cliffs to check out by grade:
5.5 to 5.7: Ävja, Brappersberget
5.7 to 5.9: Brappersberget, Nordens Ark, Stora Galgeberget
You'll definitely want to have a car in Bohuslan, as the crags are spread out over a fairly wide area. The nearest big city is Gothenburg (Goteborg), which is about 1.5 hours south of the main climbing areas. A good option would be to fly to Gothenburg and rent a car from there.
It is also possible to fly into Oslo, Norway and take a bus south to Stromstad, Sweden, which is at the northern end of the Bohuslan region. Be aware that if coming from Norway, it is far less expensive to bus from Oslo and rent a car in Sweden.
There are two main camping areas - one offered by the Bohuslan Climbers Club and another run by Bengt, the farmer who owns the Haller crag just outside of Brodalen. Both options have outdoor tent areas and indoor facilities to escape the weather on rainy days. There are also numerous AirBnB and other accommodations in the area.
Groceries can be purchased throughout the region and prices are reasonable. Larger chains like Coop and ICA have good selections. There's a small grocery store in Brodalen (arguably the center of Bohsulan climbing) that has all the basics as well as a small selection of climbing gear and the guidebook.
Beer up to 3.5% alcohol can be purchased in grocery stores. For wine or hard liquor, you'll need to visit the "System Bolaget," the state run liquor store.
Classic Climbing Routes at Bohuslan
Days w Precip