Elevation: 38 ft
GPS: 58.443, 11.501 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 57,812 total · 400/month
Shared By: Todd Miller on Aug 7, 2010 · Updates
Admins: Michael Sullivan, Gunkswest

Description

Bohuslan is a region along the west coast of Sweden, about 90 minutes drive north of Gothenburg (and two hours south of Oslo). There are hundreds of granite crags in the region with over 1,000 established climbs. There are great routes for all levels, but the place really shines for the 5.10 - 5.11 climber. 

The rock in Bohuslan is extremely solid granite, with a beautiful rosy pink color. The climbing is mostly single pitch and the crags are scattered throughout the beautiful countryside. Most of the approaches are very short, and it is normal to visit more than one crag in a day. 

May and June are optimum times to climb, but climbing can be comfortably done from at least May to October. The small town of Brodalen is arguably the center of the Bohsulan universe. The local climbing club is based there (they have formal meetings once per month), there's a small indoor climbing gym, and on any weekend during the climbing season, you'll find climbers coming and going from the small grocery store in town (which sells the local guidebook and some climbing gear).

On rest days/rainy days, check out quaint seacoast villages in the region and the World Heritage Site just north - the Bronze Age rock carvings at Tanum.

Cliffs to check out by grade:

5.5 to 5.7: Ävja, Brappersberget

5.7 to 5.9: Brappersberget, Nordens Ark, Stora Galgeberget

Getting There

You'll definitely want to have a car in Bohuslan, as the crags are spread out over a fairly wide area. The nearest big city is Gothenburg (Goteborg), which is about 1.5 hours south of the main climbing areas. A good option would be to fly to Gothenburg and rent a car from there.

It is also possible to fly into Oslo, Norway and take a bus south to Stromstad, Sweden, which is at the northern end of the Bohuslan region. Be aware that if coming from Norway, it is far less expensive to bus from Oslo and rent a car in Sweden.

There are two main camping areas - one offered by the Bohuslan Climbers Club and another run by Bengt, the farmer who owns the Haller crag just outside of Brodalen. Both options have outdoor tent areas and indoor facilities to escape the weather on rainy days. There are also numerous AirBnB and other accommodations in the area.

Groceries can be purchased throughout the region and prices are reasonable. Larger chains like Coop and ICA have good selections. There's a small grocery store in Brodalen (arguably the center of Bohsulan climbing) that has all the basics as well as a small selection of climbing gear and the guidebook.

Beer up to 3.5% alcohol can be purchased in grocery stores. For wine or hard liquor, you'll need to visit the "System Bolaget," the state run liquor store.

64 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bohuslan

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 4
Kyrkråttan
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 3
Ödhumlan
Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 4
Återkomsten (The Return)
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Palimpsest
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Jarnkaminen
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Ormbiten
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
Bergkirstis Polska
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Vilskudd
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Mallorol
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Prismaster
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
Bagatellen
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Afterburner
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
Masken
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 3
Slimline
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Goa Brunetter
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Kyrkråttan Brappersberget > S Wall
 4
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Ödhumlan Nordens Ark
 3
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Återkomsten (The Return) Galgeberget > Stora Galgeberget - S…
 4
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad
Palimpsest Galgeberget > Stora Galgeberget - W…
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Jarnkaminen Valserod
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Ormbiten Galgeberget > Stora Galgeberget - S…
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Bergkirstis Polska Svaneberget
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Vilskudd Valserod
 8
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Mallorol Haller
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Prismaster Hallinden > Stora Vaggen
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Bagatellen Galgeberget > Stora Galgeberget - W…
 5
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Afterburner Hallinden > Branta Väggen
 4
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Masken Galgeberget > Lilla Galgeberget
 5
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Slimline Valserod
 3
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Goa Brunetter Hallinden > Branta Väggen
 3
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Bohuslan »

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