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Routes in Valserod

Jarnkaminen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jungfrun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Muffins T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slimline T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Umulius T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Via Gumball T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vilskudd T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 817 total, 9/month
Shared By: Todd Miller on Aug 7, 2010
Admins: Michael Sullivan

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Description

One of the "four classic 6-" climbs in Bohuslan, this fine route is not to be missed. Traverse a juggy flake up and left into the main crack. Head up the crack to a small roof, then step left out onto the face and traverse over to a nice handcrack. Follow the crack up and right to the start of a cruxy layback section which follows the flake out left. At the end of the layback, follow the handcrack straight to the top. Belay on gear.

Location

Start behind a boulder in the center of the face.

To descend, locate the bolts on the ledge below and climbers right of the top of the route. Scramble down onto the ledge and rappel off. One 60m rope will get you down with rope stretch.

Protection

Gear to 2 or 3".

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