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Bohuslan

International > Europe > Sweden

Description

Bohuslan is a region along the west coast of Sweden, about 90 minutes drive north of Gothenburg (and two hours south of Oslo). There are hundreds of granite crags in the region with over 1,000 established climbs. There are great routes for all levels, but the place really shines for the 5.10 - 5.11 climber. 

The rock in Bohuslan is extremely solid granite, with a beautiful rosy pink color. The climbing is mostly single pitch and the crags are scattered throughout the beautiful countryside. Most of the approaches are very short, and it is normal to visit more than one crag in a day. 

May and June are optimum times to climb, but climbing can be comfortably done from at least May to October. The small town of Brodalen is arguably the center of the Bohsulan universe. The local climbing club is based there (they have formal meetings once per month), there's a small indoor climbing gym, and on any weekend during the climbing season, you'll find climbers coming and going from the small grocery store in town (which sells the local guidebook and some climbing gear).

On rest days/rainy days, check out quaint seacoast villages in the region and the World Heritage Site just north - the Bronze Age rock carvings at Tanum.

Cliffs to check out by grade:

5.5 to 5.7: Ävja, Brappersberget

5.7 to 5.9: Brappersberget, Nordens Ark, Stora Galgeberget

Getting There

You'll definitely want to have a car in Bohuslan, as the crags are spread out over a fairly wide area. The nearest big city is Gothenburg (Goteborg), which is about 1.5 hours south of the main climbing areas. A good option would be to fly to Gothenburg and rent a car from there.

It is also possible to fly into Oslo, Norway and take a bus south to Stromstad, Sweden, which is at the northern end of the Bohuslan region. Be aware that if coming from Norway, it is far less expensive to bus from Oslo and rent a car in Sweden.

There are two main camping areas - one offered by the Bohuslan Climbers Club and another run by Bengt, the farmer who owns the Haller crag just outside of Brodalen. Both options have outdoor tent areas and indoor facilities to escape the weather on rainy days. There are also numerous AirBnB and other accommodations in the area.

Groceries can be purchased throughout the region and prices are reasonable. Larger chains like Coop and ICA have good selections. There's a small grocery store in Brodalen (arguably the center of Bohsulan climbing) that has all the basics as well as a small selection of climbing gear and the guidebook.

Beer up to 3.5% alcohol can be purchased in grocery stores. For wine or hard liquor, you'll need to visit the "System Bolaget," the state run liquor store.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Approaching Hallinden, one of many fine crags in Bohuslan.
[Hide Photo] Approaching Hallinden, one of many fine crags in Bohuslan.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] As of the summer of 2016, there is a current guidebook in print from Hanna and Petter Restorp. This book is primarily in Swedish, but directions to each crag are written in English as well. This, along with the great colored photos and maps makes climbing here an easy task without knowing any Swedish. This book can be purchased from the Coop grocery store in Brodalen and many other places in the area. They also have a small gear shop inside of the Coop if you forgot something at home.

The book you're looking for -

4.bp.blogspot.com/-NRM5wBk5…


The city of Lysekil recently released this great video of the area. In this video, you can see Brappersberget at 0:12, Trellebystrand at 0:41, and the awesome climb Mallorol at Haller at 0:48. The bouldering area of Stångehuvud can be seen throughout this video as well. It's a beautiful place!

youtube.com/watch?v=VnvQMbi… Aug 3, 2017
[Hide Comment] If you're thinking of taking a trip to Bohuslan, check out this great video of its climbing and history:

youtube.com/watch?v=RkS-082… Feb 4, 2018
[Hide Comment] Observe!
The climbing guide is not totally correct and has many hundreds of faults so take it easy!
There are more then 1000 routes missing and a lot of wrong I text. There some accurate text info on BKK homepage but only in Swedish! There are no camping at KT ( Hanna , Petter they live abroad)… camp instead at Haller crag!! Feb 1, 2022