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Routes in Stora Vaggen

Catch T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Prismaster T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rapé T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Vad Är Otid? T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 210 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 890 total · 10/month
Shared By: Todd Miller on Aug 18, 2010
Admins: Michael Sullivan

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Description

A great route, and one of the "four classic 6-" routes of Bohuslan.

P1: (5.9+, 15m) Start up flakes/face holds and make a few bouldery moves to the ledge. Traverse the ledge to the left then follow the crack up to a small stance at the base of the thin, steep crack at the base of the main corner and build a belay.

P2: (5.10c, 45m) Climb up the corner and over the small roof to the top. This pitch is characterized by tricky and devious crux moves between decent rest stances. Belay from gear at the top or continue up a little more and belay from the tree.

Location

Follow the approach road/trail to the crag, then find a path through the brush to the base of the route.

To descend, find the path (up behind the tree from the top) and walk off climbers left.

Protection

Gear to 2".

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