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Routes in Stora Vaggen

Catch T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Prismaster T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rapé T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Vad Är Otid? T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Rikard Hedman, Jan Liliemark - '86
Page Views: 214 total, 5/month
Shared By: Lisa Montgomery on Jul 1, 2014
Admins: Michael Sullivan

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Description

Stunning line that ascends Hallinden's biggest wall via a cobbly finger crack intrusion. Despite the crack not being splitter, the quality of the rock is quite good and protects well. Catch is sustained, unique, and an incredible rock climb.

Route finding: the finger crack culminates at a stance on a sloping ledge. At his point, either go straight up on runout 7+(?) or traverse hard right walking the ledge until it ends and then making some runout 6+ face moves to gain another ledge in a dihedral. Both variations finish by following weaknesses that angle right. Belay with gear or from a tree at the top of the cliff.

Location

Located on the upper tier of the main wall. Walk up an obvious 4th class ramp with hand line, then go left about 20 feet. The route begins at a finger crack intrusion.

Protection

Standard rack to #2 camalot, nuts, many draws/slings. Triples fingers and medium-sized nuts.

I climbed this route with a 70 meter rope. After using the tree belay (which is about 30 feet set back from the edge of the cliff), there wasn't much rope left.

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