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Routes in Stora Vaggen

Catch T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Prismaster T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rapé T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Vad Är Otid? T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Rikard Heman, Per Calleberg, 1989
Page Views: 80 total, 2/month
Shared By: Lisa Montgomery on Jul 10, 2014
Admins: Michael Sullivan

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Description

A fun route that climbs the obvious right facing dihederal to the right of Prismaster. Though it is possible to climb the route in one pitch, it is advised to break it up into 2 pitches in order to keep your rope from getting stuck in a crack.

P1 (10-) 40ft: Start by following a blocky weakness for about 15 feet then traverse left 10 feet. Step back right and surmount the steep crack. Belay on a large sloping ledge.

P2 (10+) 140ft: From the belay climb up the thin crack with some tricky face climbing. Gain the dihederal and follow it for another 70ft until you get to a ledge where you have two options: continue straight up (contrived 11-) or traverse hard right (10-). Belay from a tree at the top of the cliff and walk off to the left.

Location

This is the route just right of Prismaster. Start in the short left-facing dihedral.

Protection

Standard rack to #2. Optional extra medium nuts and finger cams.

Photos

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