Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Prismaster

5.10c, Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.8 from 6 votes
FA: unknown
International > Europe > Sweden > Bohuslan > Hallinden > Stora Vaggen

Description

A great route, and one of the "four classic 6-" routes of Bohuslan.

P1: (5.9+, 15m) Start up flakes/face holds and make a few bouldery moves to the ledge. Traverse the ledge to the left then follow the crack up to a small stance at the base of the thin, steep crack at the base of the main corner and build a belay.

P2: (5.10c, 45m) Climb up the corner and over the small roof to the top. This pitch is characterized by tricky and devious crux moves between decent rest stances. Belay from gear at the top or continue up a little more and belay from the tree.

Location

Follow the approach road/trail to the crag, then find a path through the brush to the base of the route.

To descend, find the path (up behind the tree from the top) and walk off climbers left.

Protection

Gear to 2".

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Following the short first pitch of Prismaster.
[Hide Photo] Following the short first pitch of Prismaster.
The route starts on the flakes, visible on the face between the trees, then traverses left on the ledge, then goes up the corner (the left and longer of the two visible in this photo) to the top.
[Hide Photo] The route starts on the flakes, visible on the face between the trees, then traverses left on the ledge, then goes up the corner (the left and longer of the two visible in this photo) to the top.
On P2 of Prismaster.
[Hide Photo] On P2 of Prismaster.