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Elevation: 97 ft 30 m
GPS: 58.30444, 11.45138
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Barrett Metza on Jul 21, 2017 · Updates
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Description Suggest change

This is where you'll want to go if you enjoy clipping bolts and don't want to go far from Lysekil. Even then, this destination is worthy of a drive much further than that.

There are easily 50+ routes established here (mainly by Jens Larssen, Henrik Bolander, and Rasmus Jedeur-Palmgren with Fredrik Lundqvist helping on the Upper Wall). The climbing at the lower section is sometimes referred to as "gorilla climbing," while the upper section is a little more delicate and slabby.

Note: The Gothenburg area guidebook, Klättring i Göteborg, contains a detailed writeup of this area. Route names listed here are consistent with this guide. The Klättring i Bohuslän guide is less detailed and gives different names for the first few routes.

Getting There Suggest change

Lower Section: To get to the lower section, the best way is to begin at Trellebystrand camping. Trellebystrand camping is located at
Träleberg 340, 453 92 Lysekil, Sweden. From here, make your way west to the coastline. Follow the coast south for roughly 15 minutes and you can't miss the huge cave on your left.

Side note: On an off day, it's great to follow the coastline all the way down to Siviks camping. Mostly 3rd and 4th class, but there are a few options for 5.8 deep water soloing.

Upper section: Once again you can start from Trellebystrand, but this time head southwest on the only road leaving the camping area towards Siviks Camping. After going up a short hill about 1/2 mile from Trellebystrand you will be looking for a trail on your right. This will be just passed one of the few homes in the area on your right side. Take this trail up and you can't miss the obvious bridges leading straight to the climbing area.

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The main wall and what you came here for. Plenty of more climbs to the right and left of this photo.
The main wall and what you came here for. Plent…
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