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Routes in L'Olla

Bistec de Biceps S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cap Rapat S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
El Caganer S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
La Cara Que No Miente S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Mayling S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tagediebe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Valga'm deu quin Patar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ya Os Vale S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Elevation: 2,300 ft
GPS: 41.266, 0.937 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 4,724 total · 43/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay
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Description

The famed Sector L'Olla is Siurana's power headquarters; the place to come for those in search of short & fierce roped bouldering. Many famous power routes reside in the tiny tufa-studded cirque at the center of this cliff, most notably "La Cara Que No Miente" (8a+) and "Bistec de Biceps" (7b+). Both routes were featured in the legendary Eric Pearlman series "Masters of Stone". Despite the stunted height of this cliff, this is undoubtedly some of the nicest limestone at Siurana, offering amazing sinker pockets, frustrating wide tufas, and beautiful orange and blue streaks. The central cirque overhangs a good 30 degrees, making all of these routes burly & gymnastic. This is also what Ron Kauk would call a "ropebag-free zone", meaning the cliff-base is free of dust & other debris.

Despite its reputation, there is a little something for everyone at this crag, with some of the best 5.11s around, such as "Mayling" and "El Caganer", located on the right end of the cliff. There are also a handful of standard-length sport climbs on the far left end of the cliff, including the classic 8b "Migrany". In total, there are ~35 routes ranging in grade from 6b (5.10+) to 8b (5.13+).

This crag gets a bit more shade than other places at Siurana, due to its location tucked in the back of the canyon. The entire cliff is shady until ~11am. Ya Os Vale & routes to the left stay shady for another hour or so, and then the cliff is in full sun until the afternoon, when the Siuranella cliff provides a bit of shade in the winter, starting at around 2pm.

Getting There

L Olla is part of the same general cliff band as Espero Primavera. Park and approach as for Espero Primavera, but continue west along the cliff base trail. The trail descends, and passes around an enormous detached pillar. Stay right after the pillar, passing below the El Pati cliff, and its famous testpiece ¨La Rambla¨. Stay right at all of the trail forks, eventually gaining a high extremely exposed ledge. Continue along the ledge to a beautiful steep cirque of short, tufa-ed sport routes.

8 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at L'Olla

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
Mayling
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 7
Bistec de Biceps
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 3
Ya Os Vale
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mayling
 5
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Bistec de Biceps
 7
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Ya Os Vale
 3
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in L'Olla »

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