Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 1,750 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009 |
Admins: | Jason Halladay, David Riley |
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Description
Though merely a boulder problem, this is one of the classic power routes of Siurana, and one of the best 7c's period. The wall is basically a pegboard of sinker 2-finger pockets on a 30 degree overhang. The sequence is trivial to decipher from the ground, so tendon strength & attitude are the only barriers to the on sight.
Work up to the horizontal break, then make a long reach to the first pocket. More big reaches between generally great pockets leads to the moment of truth, a desperate stab to a good pocket, with poor feet. Gun for the next break & a great rest. The angle lessens here, as better pockets lead up to the slab. Merge with "Bistec de Biceps" once on the slab and follow it to its anchor.
Work up to the horizontal break, then make a long reach to the first pocket. More big reaches between generally great pockets leads to the moment of truth, a desperate stab to a good pocket, with poor feet. Gun for the next break & a great rest. The angle lessens here, as better pockets lead up to the slab. Merge with "Bistec de Biceps" once on the slab and follow it to its anchor.
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