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Routes in L'Olla

Bistec de Biceps S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cap Rapat S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
El Caganer S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
La Cara Que No Miente S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Mayling S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tagediebe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Valga'm deu quin Patar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ya Os Vale S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 925 total, 9/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay

You & This Route


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Description

Though merely a boulder problem, this is one of the classic power routes of Siurana, and one of the best 7c's period. The wall is basically a pegboard of sinker 2-finger pockets on a 30 degree overhang. The sequence is trivial to decipher from the ground, so tendon strength & attitude are the only barriers to the on sight.

Work up to the horizontal break, then make a long reach to the first pocket. More big reaches between generally great pockets leads to the moment of truth, a desperate stab to a good pocket, with poor feet. Gun for the next break & a great rest. The angle lessens here, as better pockets lead up to the slab. Merge with "Bistec de Biceps" once on the slab and follow it to its anchor.

Location

Immediately left of "Bistec de Biceps", or the second route right of the obvious orange tufa of "La Cara Que No Miente".

Protection

~4 Bolts to no anchor, or move right & clip the last bolt of Bistecs de Biceps & lower off the Bistec 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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