Ya Os Vale
Avg: 4 from 2 votes
Routes in L'Olla
|Bistec de Biceps S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Cap Rapat S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|El Caganer S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|La Cara Que No Miente S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a|
|Mayling S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Tagediebe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Valga'm deu quin Patar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Ya Os Vale S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Type:||Sport, 50 ft|
|Page Views:||925 total, 9/month|
|Shared By:||Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009|
DescriptionThough merely a boulder problem, this is one of the classic power routes of Siurana, and one of the best 7c's period. The wall is basically a pegboard of sinker 2-finger pockets on a 30 degree overhang. The sequence is trivial to decipher from the ground, so tendon strength & attitude are the only barriers to the on sight.
Work up to the horizontal break, then make a long reach to the first pocket. More big reaches between generally great pockets leads to the moment of truth, a desperate stab to a good pocket, with poor feet. Gun for the next break & a great rest. The angle lessens here, as better pockets lead up to the slab. Merge with "Bistec de Biceps" once on the slab and follow it to its anchor.