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Areas in The Library

Main Block, Back Side 1 / 7 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Main Block, Front Side 2 / 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Rear Wall 1 / 9 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Southeast Block, Back side 1 / 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Description [Suggest Change]

40 foot tall great climbing one of the last places to dry since it only gets 3 hours of direct sun

Getting There [Suggest Change]

In Mocanaqua near the bridge, park by the sewage treatment plant at the end of the road. From the parking lot, with the plant on your left, walk back to your right over the train tracks past the gravel. Take the 4WD path to the right, and keep to the right, passing Paradise and the Rambo wall on your left.

Go straight across the quarry (no not keep left by the cliff band) until you reach the Library.

33 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Library

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cornflake Crack
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grey Face
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lavwelle Latte
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Urine Over Your Head
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brass Monkey
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stairway to Heaven
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Great Expectations
Sport, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Darling Dainty Feet
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cornflake Crack Main Block, Back Side
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Grey Face Main Block, Back Side
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Lavwelle Latte Main Block, Back Side
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Urine Over Your Head Main Block, Front Side
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Brass Monkey Main Block, Back Side
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Stairway to Heaven Rear Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Great Expectations Main Block, Back Side
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Flamer Main Block, Back Side
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Darling Dainty Feet Main Block, Front Side
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Thunderstud Rear Wall
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Library »

Weather Averages

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I think it will be helpful to divide the routes for the Library into three sections -- because it's a bit complicated. The main thing you see when approaching from Paradise is the large detached block. Then when you get there you discover a corridor behind the block, between the block and a "normal" non-detached cliff face. The corridor and the two main faces of the block all run roughly SSW to NNE. The widest and easiest entrance to the corridor is on its NNE end.
So it makes sense to have these three sections:

  • Frontside (? or Outside?) : the west side of the detached block (visible on the approach from Paradise, away from the corridor. This section would include some climbs which are on the north end of the detached block (because they're on the west side of the widest entrance to the corridor). - . (includes Darling Dainty Feet, Nuclear Arms, Urine Over Your Head, Tales from the Crimpt)
  • Backside : the east side of the detached block (which is the west wall of the corridor). - . (includes Book of Four Words, Easy Day for a Layback, Lavwelle Latte, Flamer, Brass Monkey, Grey Face, Cornflake Crack, Warmup Route)
  • Rear Wall : the east wall of the corridor (not on the detached block at all). - . (includes Pine Line, K B, Stairway to Heaven, Thunderstud/Thunderbolt)
May 24, 2014
Justin Johnsen
Sacramento, CA
Justin Johnsen   Sacramento, CA  
Ken, done. I shuffled these into three new areas, and assigned them to you as owner!

I used the name "Main Block" from the Holzman guide book. Other than that, I followed your suggestions. May 30, 2014
Getting There ...
Parking is by the east bank of the Susquehenna River about half a mile north from the village of Mocanaqua (across the river from Shickshinny).
GPS latitude longitude approx (N41.1482 W76.1447).

Walk NNE through entrance gate to sewage treatment plant and onto dirt road. About 650 feet from parking the road climbs and curves around Right until going aiming South (N41.1500 W76.1426).
. . (Here bearing right SSW for 650 feet gentle, then curving to SE leads to the Paradise cliffs and the deep gravel pit, which is the shortest way to the Library on the other side of the pit).
The overall gentler way to the Library is to bear Left SSE uphill on dirt road, soon gentler SE, then curve to go E then ENE to a junction (N41.1483 W76.1370). Turn Right and go SW on dirt road then SSW to reach steep gravel slope (N41.1461 W76.1385). Turn off Left ESE and up steep to the north entrance of the Library.

Estimating ...
+260 vertical feet uphill over 0.85 mile distance from Parking
. . (+80 meters uphill over 1.35 km distance).
Typical times for approach (gentler way) in the range of 15-30 minutes. Dec 26, 2015

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