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Routes in Main Block, Front Side

Darling Dainty Feet S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Nuclear Arms S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Phazers on Stun T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Unnamed 5.12 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Urine Over Your Head T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
unnamed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: D. Miscavage, G. Peterson, A. Pisaneschi
Page Views: 223 total · 5/month
Shared By: kenr on Jun 13, 2015
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp, SCPC

You & This Route


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Description

Up the sustained-overhanging crack, then a short arete to the top.

Location

Thin crack with some curving, passing two or three bolts along the way, starting above the right end of some rather large fallen rocks.

Protection

Two or three widely-spaced bolts, which need to be supplemented with Trad gear (likely strenuous to place).
Two-bolt anchor on top.

Photos

Dave
 
Dave  
 
Really cool route. Wish there was a third bolt before the anchors. The anchors are located above the edge, set slightly back. Might need long, or Alpine draws for a comfortable, non-draggy toprope. If leading sport, I'd definitely suggest a piece of trad gear somewhere before the anchors.

Also, there is a picture of this route on Nuclear Arms. I'm pretty sure those dudes are on this problem - Phasers on Stun. Oct 12, 2017

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