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Routes in Main Block, Back Side

Brass Arete S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Brass Monkey TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cornflake Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easy Day for a Layback TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flamer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Great Expectations S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grey Face S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grey Nose TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lavwelle Latte S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Murky Way, The S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warm Up Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: TR, 35 ft
FA: Rob Holzman
Page Views: 755 total · 9/month
Shared By: Chadd Sechler on Mar 23, 2012 with updates from kenr
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp, SCPC

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Climb the face between Great Expectations and the arete+chimney.


To the right of Great Expectations and about five feet left of the arete (with two bolts) + chimney.


No bolts along the route and no bolt anchor at top. Trad placements likely unreliable or non-existent.


  5.8 X
  5.8 X
[in response to an earlier route description that mentioned three bolts] ...

I found no line of bolts between Great Expectations and the arete at the north (right) end of this section of the wall. There were at least three bolts on Great Expectations; and there were at least two bolts very close to the corner / arete at the left side of the obvious wide chimney at the right end of this section of the wall -- but no bolts in between.

The Holzman guidebook lists Brass Monkey with a protection rating of X.
I don't see how that fits with having three bolts. Aug 24, 2014
This route has two bolts. I don't know what Chadd was thinking, but you can see both in the picture he submitted. My guess is the X rating comes because the first bolt is 18' off the deck. Sep 26, 2014
  5.8 X
  5.8 X
Those two bolts are for a different route, called "5.10b" in the Rob Holzman guidebook.
. (My best guess would be that the strong climbers who first developed the Library just enjoyed soloing Brass Monkey -- as they did other routes of similar difficulty, e.g. Gray Face). Jun 13, 2015

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