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Routes in Main Block, Back Side

Brass Arete S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Brass Monkey TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cornflake Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easy Day for a Layback TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flamer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Great Expectations S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grey Face S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grey Nose TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lavwelle Latte S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Murky Way, The S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warm Up Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 757 total · 10/month
Shared By: Chadd Sechler on Mar 23, 2012
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

Climb the face past 3 bolts at the right end of the wall. The start is about 10' to the right of the Cornflake Crack.

Location [Suggest Change]

Ten feet to the right of the Cornflake Crack on the inside wall of the Library.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Three bolts

Photos

kenr
  5.7+
kenr  
  5.7+
Location is on the backside wall (west face) of the main detached block, which is the east wall of the corridor behind that block. Almost at the right / north end of that wall (by the widest easiest entrance to the corridor). May 24, 2014
kenr
  5.7+
kenr  
  5.7+
This route is not a "warmup" (except for 5.11 climbers), and it's not 5.6.

Several tricky moves, with at least one critical move relying on a small or non-positive fingerholds.

Work out very carefully the belay / protection methods required to avoid hitting a ledge or bulge if blow one of the moves in the lower half - (? bring a stick-clip ?)
. (I am not suggesting that the bolts are badly placed -- I think the problem is just the structure of the rock). Aug 24, 2014
jim kaminski  
5.5
Fun route. I thought all the hand holds felt pretty solid. Oct 17, 2017
Great warm up for a cold day! Super fun route with great holds. If you don't like scary first moves you could bring a stick clip, but commitment is a big part of sport climbing! Do watch your belay position though. Climbs 5.5 but could be 5.6 if you began with a sit start like we did today. Nov 4, 2017
Jon Best
5.7+
Jon Best  
5.7+
Agree with Kenr, This is not a 5.6, closer to 5.7+
Good warm up though Apr 16, 2018

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