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Routes in Main Block, Back Side

Brass Arete S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Brass Monkey TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cornflake Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easy Day for a Layback TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flamer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Great Expectations S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grey Face S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grey Nose TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lavwelle Latte S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Murky Way, The S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warm Up Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Elevation: 688 ft
GPS: 41.146, -76.138 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 4,224 total · 95/month
Shared By: kenr on May 30, 2014
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp
Getting weather forecast...

Description

The west side of the interior corridor of the Library -- which is the east wall of the big detached block.

When approaching from Paradise, the main thing you see is the large detached block. Then when you get there you discover a corridor behind the block, between the main block and a "normal" non-detached cliff face. The corridor and the two main faces of the block all run roughly SSW to NNE. The widest and easiest entrance to the corridor is on its NNE end.

Getting There

Parking is by the east bank of the Susquehenna River about half a mile north from the village of Mocanaqua (across the river from Shickshinny).
GPS latitude longitude approx (N41.1482 W76.1447).

Walk NNE through entrance gate to sewage treatment plant and onto dirt road. About 650 feet from parking the road climbs and curves around Right until going aiming South (N41.1500 W76.1426).
. . (Here bearing right SSW for 650 feet gentle, then curving to SE leads to the Paradise cliffs and the deep gravel pit, which is the shortest way to the Library on the other side of the pit).
The overall gentler way to the Library is to bear Left SSE uphill on dirt road, soon gentler SE, then curve to go E then ENE to a junction (N41.1483 W76.1370). Turn Right and go SW on dirt road then SSW to reach steep gravel slope (N41.1461 W76.1385). Turn off Left ESE and up steep to the north entrance of the Library.

Turn right SSW into the interior corridor, and the Back Wall of the Main Block is on the right side.

Estimating ...
+260 vertical feet uphill over 0.85 mile distance from Parking
. . (+80 meters uphill over 1.35 km distance).
Typical times for approach (gentler way) in the range of 15-30 minutes.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Block, Back Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cornflake Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lavwelle Latte
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brass Monkey
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grey Face
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Great Expectations
Sport, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flamer
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cornflake Crack 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Lavwelle Latte 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Brass Monkey 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Grey Face 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Great Expectations 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Flamer 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Main Block, Back Side »

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Photos

kenr  
Many people like to lead the (bolted) Warm Up Route to set up Top-Ropes for routes on this wall (also for routes on the Front wall of the main block).
Note that the lower half of that route is way harder than 5.6, and does have ledge-hit fall potential. Aug 24, 2014
kenr  
Bolts for "Easy Day for a Layback" (on the left of Lavwelle Latte) are missing hangers as of August 2014. Aug 24, 2014

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