All Locations > Pennsylvania > Northeast Ridge… > Mocanaqua (aka… > Library

Main Block, Back Side Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Main Block, Back Side

L › R R › L A › Z

	Brass Arete S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Brass Monkey TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Cornflake Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Easy Day for a Layback TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Flamer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Great Expectations S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Grey Face S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Grey Nose TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Lavwelle Latte S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Murky Way, The S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Warm Up Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

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Elevation:	688 ft	210 m
GPS:	41.14588, -76.13831 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	18,086 total · 124/month
Shared By:	kenr on May 30, 2014
Admins:	Justin Johnsen, SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Paradise, Library, and Hawk Rock closed to climbing Details

During the recent public OHV study meetings linked below, The Earth Conservancy has made it clear that they do not allow rock climbing on their land. The Library, Paradise, and Hawk Rock all fall within Earth Conservancy Land, and are therefore closed to climbing. The Eastern Pennsylvania Alliance of climbers is currently working with the Access Fund, Earth Conservancy, and DCNR to reopen these areas to climbing. Please be respectful of this closure and utilize the other crags around Mocanaqua to avoid further jeopardizing our future access of these beloved crags.

earthconservancy.org/recrea…

Description

The west side of the interior corridor of the Library -- which is the east wall of the big detached block.

When approaching from Paradise, the main thing you see is the large detached block. Then when you get there you discover a corridor behind the block, between the main block and a "normal" non-detached cliff face. The corridor and the two main faces of the block all run roughly SSW to NNE. The widest and easiest entrance to the corridor is on its NNE end.

Getting There

Parking is by the east bank of the Susquehenna River about half a mile north from the village of Mocanaqua (across the river from Shickshinny).
GPS latitude longitude approx (N41.1482 W76.1447).

Walk NNE through entrance gate to sewage treatment plant and onto dirt road. About 650 feet from parking the road climbs and curves around Right until going aiming South (N41.1500 W76.1426).
. . (Here bearing right SSW for 650 feet gentle, then curving to SE leads to the Paradise cliffs and the deep gravel pit, which is the shortest way to the Library on the other side of the pit).
The overall gentler way to the Library is to bear Left SSE uphill on dirt road, soon gentler SE, then curve to go E then ENE to a junction (N41.1483 W76.1370). Turn Right and go SW on dirt road then SSW to reach steep gravel slope (N41.1461 W76.1385). Turn off Left ESE and up steep to the north entrance of the Library.

Turn right SSW into the interior corridor, and the Back Wall of the Main Block is on the right side.

Estimating ...
+260 vertical feet uphill over 0.85 mile distance from Parking
. . (+80 meters uphill over 1.35 km distance).
Typical times for approach (gentler way) in the range of 15-30 minutes.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Block, Back Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 24 ● Cornflake Crack Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 10 ● Lavwelle Latte Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 11 ● Brass Monkey TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 23 ● Grey Face Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 6 ● Grey Nose TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 19 ● Great Expectations Sport, TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b 10 ● The Murky Way Sport, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 8 ● Easy Day for a Layback TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 15 ● Flamer Sport