Mocanaqua (aka Shickshinny) Climbing
|GPS:||41.147, -76.145 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Jarred Cleerdin on Aug 7, 2009|
|Admins:||SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC, Justin Johnsen|
"Mocanaqua" is the general location title that covers several distinct crags and boulder "gardens" scattered in the hills behind the town of Mocanaqua. The specific crag names are Paradise, The Library, Main Wall, Hawk Rock, and Squirrel Rock, along with quite a few others. There is a bunch of great climbing and fortunately most of it has good legal access.
If you're into history, the region's coal mining heritage is in evidence here in the form of great culm banks, abandoned structures, open mine shafts, etc. Paradise, for example was a dumping ground for this mine waste known as "culm" and untold tons of the stuff got poured right over the top. As you approach the cliff from the river, this culm is in evidence the whole way and you can imagine the carts dumping load after load over the top until the cliff almost disappeared. Lucky for us they stopped, leaving a fifty of sixty foot band exposed. The routes here go up to 5.12+ and there bouldering and highballs galore.
Geologically, the rock is quartzite of the Penobscot formation, and (I think) it's pretty cool that it's the same ridge that has exposures in West Virginia (Seneca) and in New York (The Gunks).
As far as climbing history goes, the first person I know of who started developing these cliffs was Albert Pisaneschi and I'm pretty sure that began in the late seventies/early eighties. For some reason Bob D'Antonio is the name that comes up but you can be sure he contributed a fraction of a percent of what Albert did. My guess is Bob talked, Al did not. Albert never reported his own routes, but he was prolific, climbing 5.13 sport, hard trad, ground up first ascents of hard (A4) nail ups, etc. Yet another "unsung" hero of our sport as his friend Rich Romano would like to say.
Some of the climbing areas and trails here are owned by the Earth Conservancy, who does not allow rock climbing on their land.
To the Main Wall from US 11 cross the bridge into Mocanaqua. Follow 239 into town to where 239 makes a 90 turn to the right go straight on SR 3004 instead of following 239.
The parking is a small dirt lot up a mile give or take on the left immediately off the road before the s turns. The trail is on the right of the little parking lot. The Main Wall cliff parallels the road here and is quite close to the road, but nicely screened by the trees.
Or just use Gordon's directions on Google Maps.
Bat Conservation | How You Can Help
See a Bat on a Route, Give Us a Shout!
Hey climbers, the Eastern Pennsylvania Alliance of Climbers (EPAC) is working with Rob Schorr at Colorado State University to help him spread the word about his bat research. Here’s a message from him about this important work and how, we as climbers, can help.
"Climbers for Bat Conservation is working with climbers to understand bat ecology and why bats choose certain cracks and flakes. We’re a collaboration between climbers, bat biologists, and land managers to understand where bats roost and where large populations may reside. We are interested in finding bats because of a new disease called white-nose syndrome (whitenosesyndrome.org) which has killed millions of bats in North America. This collaboration has identified bat roosts throughout the U.S., and as far away as Norway and Bulgaria. CBC was developed by biologists who climb and they are advocates for climbing access and bat conservation.
So, if you see bats while climbing, please let us know by emailing us at email@example.com, or visiting our website to learn more. climbersforbats.colostate.edu."
Zoologist, Colorado Natural Heritage Program (warnercnr.colostate.edu/rschorr/)
Director, Climbers for Bat Conservation
Classic Climbing Routes at Mocanaqua (aka Shickshinny)
Days w Precip