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Routes in Main Block, Back Side
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Brass Arete S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Brass Monkey TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cornflake Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Easy Day for a Layback TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flamer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Great Expectations S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Grey Face S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Grey Nose TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Lavwelle Latte S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Murky Way, The S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Warm Up Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 35 ft (11 m) |
| GPS: | 41.14588, -76.13831 |
| FA: | M. Cichon |
| Page Views: | 1,084 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Jun 13, 2015 |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC |
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Access Issue: Paradise, Library, and Hawk Rock closed to climbing
Details
During the recent public OHV study meetings linked below, The Earth Conservancy has made it clear that they do not allow rock climbing on their land. The Library, Paradise, and Hawk Rock all fall within Earth Conservancy Land, and are therefore closed to climbing. The Eastern Pennsylvania Alliance of climbers is currently working with the Access Fund, Earth Conservancy, and DCNR to reopen these areas to climbing. Please be respectful of this closure and utilize the other crags around Mocanaqua to avoid further jeopardizing our future access of these beloved crags.
earthconservancy.org/recrea…
earthconservancy.org/recrea…
Description
Start up the corner/arete. Finish up the corner/arete past two bolts.
Variation (easier): Start on Brass Monkey face, then move right to the arete and bolts.
(One print guidebook gives the name of this route as, "5.10b")
Location
On the arete/corner at the Right end of the wall with Flamer and Great Expectations. Left side of the chimney which is at the Left end of the Gray Face wall.
Protection
Two bolts, but the first bolt is a long ways up. The landing for bouldering the starting sequence is not so good -- alternative is the Brass Monkey start on the face, then move Right to the arete.
Top-Rope: Setting up top anchor for Top Rope requires long slings or short static line (perhaps also some Trad gear?)
Photos
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