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Routes in Main Block, Front Side

Darling Dainty Feet S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Nuclear Arms S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Phazers on Stun T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Unnamed 5.12 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Urine Over Your Head T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
unnamed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Elevation: 689 ft
GPS: 41.146, -76.138 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 1,736 total, 40/month
Shared By: kenr on May 30, 2014
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp
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Description

The west side of the big detached block (readily visible on the approach from Paradise). The front side is away from the interior corridor of the Library.

This section also includes some routes (e.g. Darling Dainty Feet) which are on the north end of the detached main block (because they're on the west side of the widest entrance to the corridor).

Getting There

Parking is by the east bank of the Susquehenna River about half a mile north from the village of Mocanaqua (across the river from Shickshinny).
GPS latitude longitude approx (N41.1482 W76.1447).

Walk NNE through entrance gate to sewage treatment plant and onto dirt road. About 650 feet from parking the road climbs and curves around Right until going aiming South (N41.1500 W76.1426).
. . (Here bearing right SSW for 650 feet gentle, then curving to SE leads to the Paradise cliffs and the deep gravel pit, which is the shortest way to the Library on the other side of the pit).
The overall gentler way to the Library is to bear Left SSE uphill on dirt road, soon gentler SE, then curve to go E then ENE to a junction (N41.1483 W76.1370). Turn Right and go SW on dirt road then SSW to reach steep gravel slope (N41.1461 W76.1385). Turn off Left ESE and up steep to the north entrance of the Library.

Now instead of entering the interior, look up just right to see the Darling Dainty Feet route on the north face of the big detached block. Then bear Right and walk/scramble along the outside wall to get to the other routes of this sector.

Estimating ...
+260 vertical feet uphill over 0.85 mile distance from Parking
. . (+80 meters uphill over 1.35 km distance).
Typical times for approach (gentler way) in the range of 15-30 minutes.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Block, Front Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Urine Over Your Head
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Darling Dainty Feet
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Urine Over Your Head 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Darling Dainty Feet 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
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Photos

kenr  
Many people like to lead the (bolted) Warm Up Route (on the back wall of the main block) to set up Top-Ropes for routes on this front wall.
Note that the lower half of that route is way harder than 5.6, and does have ledge-hit fall potential. Aug 24, 2014

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