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Routes in Rear Wall

Bitch is Back, The S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Coal Shaker TR 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
K.B. S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Knotty Pine TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lightning S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pine Line S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pod Head TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ryan's Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Sad, Sloppy, Worthless, and Weak S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stairway to Heaven S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thunderstud S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
War and Peace S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
unnamed (rear wall) S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elevation: 688 ft
GPS: 41.146, -76.138 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 3,063 total, 71/month
Shared By: kenr on May 30, 2014
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

Description

The east wall of the interior corridor of the Library -- not on the detached block at all.

When approaching from Paradise, the main thing you see is the large detached block. Then when you get there you discover a corridor behind the block, between the main block and a "normal" non-detached cliff face. The corridor and the two main faces of the block all run roughly SSW to NNE. The widest and easiest entrance to the corridor is on its NNE end.

Getting There

Parking is by the east bank of the Susquehenna River about half a mile north from the village of Mocanaqua (across the river from Shickshinny).
GPS latitude longitude approx (N41.1482 W76.1447).

Walk NNE through entrance gate to sewage treatment plant and onto dirt road. About 650 feet from parking the road climbs and curves around Right until going aiming South (N41.1500 W76.1426).
. . (Here bearing right SSW for 650 feet gentle, then curving to SE leads to the Paradise cliffs and the deep gravel pit, which is the shortest way to the Library on the other side of the pit).
The overall gentler way to the Library is to bear Left SSE uphill on dirt road, soon gentler SE, then curve to go E then ENE to a junction (N41.1483 W76.1370). Turn Right and go SW on dirt road then SSW to reach steep gravel slope (N41.1461 W76.1385). Turn off Left ESE and up steep to the north entrance of the Library.

Turn right SSW into the interior corridor, and the Rear Wall is on the left side.

Estimating . . .
+260 vertical feet uphill over 0.85 mile distance from Parking.
. . (+80 meters uphill over 1.35 km distance).
Typical times for approach (gentler way) in the range of 15-30 minutes.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Rear Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stairway to Heaven
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lightning
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Thunderstud
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Stairway to Heaven 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Lightning 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Thunderstud 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
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Photos

kenr  
Hangers on the bolts on the horizontal rock at the top of this wall are still all missing as of August 2014.

I saw intact rings on one anchor which is in the vertical rock just below the top of this wall. Aug 24, 2014
Gordon88
Pennsylvania
Gordon88   Pennsylvania
Currently all of the hangers are removed from the anchors, except on Stairway. Anyone know why? Jul 7, 2014

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