Elevation: 13,395 ft
GPS: 37.27, -118.673 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 33,052 total · 241/month
Shared By: Bruce Lacroix on Jul 26, 2009
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Access Issue:
  • *NATIONAL FORESTS IN THIS AREA MAY BE CLOSED**
Details

Description

At 13,986 ft., Mt. Humphreys is the 14th highest peak in California. It is also ranked number 70 in the contiguous US. and one of 15 Sierra emblem peaks. The regular route is class 4.

Getting There

Humphreys Basin:
To get there, from Bishop, take Route 168, to North Lake. Past North Lake there is a campground. The Piute Pass trail leaves from here. Take the trail to Piute Pass. Five miles, 2,100' el. gain to 11,423'. From Piute Pass, you can see Mt. Humphreys to the north. Hike over Humphreys Basin to the base of the southWest slope, there are campsites at one of the numerous little tarns.

East Face Approach:
The best approach is via Buttermilk Rd. off of 168. Turn right on to Buttermilk Road which is a dirt road. This road leads to the buttermilk bouldering area and is drivable in most vehicles. However, once you reach the Buttermilks the road quickly deteriorates. Drive over a cattle guard, there will be a left and right turn but head straight. Now the fun begins. Good clearance is highly recommended. Essentially you want to stay on the main road till its end. There will be turns and roads that branch off and it wont always be obvious which way stays on the main road. At 2.3 miles from that cattle guard at the bouldering area the road starts to curve significantly to your left. At 3.5 miles you reach a fork , go right. Drive through an aspen grove past some campsites drive over a small creek where the road turns hard left and heads up a hill. This hill can hold snow depending on time of year. At about 4 miles the road forks, go right, and then very quickly the road forks again, go right again. At 4.4 miles stay right, shortly after you see a turn to the right stay straight and then shortly after a left turn, stay straight again. Continue on and at about 5.5 mile you head up a steep winding section. Follow the road to its end in a small parking area at about 6 miles.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mt. Humphreys

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
 10
Southwest Slope and Northwest Face
Trad, Alpine
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 39
East Arete
Trad, Alpine
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 3
South East Buttress
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Southwest Slope and Northwe…
 10
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Trad, Alpine
East Arete
 39
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, Alpine
South East Buttress
 3
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
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