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Routes in Mt. Humphreys

East Arete T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Hutchinson Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
North Couloir Direct T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c AI3
Southwest Slope and Northwest Face T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Type: Trad, Alpine, Grade II
FA: August 3,1919 by George Bunn and party.
Page Views: 4,061 total, 40/month
Shared By: brucelacroix on Jul 26, 2009
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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permit required for overnight climbs or camping. Details

Description

A good route up one of the highest peaks in the US. Just a couple hundred feet of 3rd class and about 30 feet of 4th class to reach the summit. The 3rd and 4th class are near the top of the route. The 4th class is on solid rock with positive holds.

Climb onto the talus and head for the wide, left angling gully. Aim for the notch, Southwest of the summit. Most of this is easy, class 2, some of it is a little loose. Climb all the way to the notch. At the notch, you will see a right angling, 3rd class ramp. Take this all the way, until you hit a headwall. At the headwall, climb out to the right(east). This is the first, 4th class section, and is about ten feet long. Continue right and then up, to the second, 4th class section, which is about 20-30 ft. long. Continue on a 2nd class ridge to the summit. Remember where you came up, for the return trip.

See photos for visual beta.

Location

The route starts at the base of the Southwest Face. Above the highest lake. See beta photos.

To descend, retrace your steps.

Protection

Some people may want to rope up near the top.

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