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Routes in Mt. Humphreys

East Arete T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Hutchinson Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
North Couloir Direct T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c AI3 Steep Snow
South East Buttress T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Southwest Slope and Northwest Face T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
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Type: Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1400 ft, Grade III
FA: Craig Peer 1979 (direct); Walter Starr, 1929 (indirect)
Page Views: 423 total · 31/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Aug 31, 2017
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The prominent 1000' V-shaped couloir on the northeast side of Mt Humphreys. The original ascent went up the right branch of the V, but the left fork is preferred as it is steeper and more direct. Moynier & Fiddler rate the route "class 5 snow & ice" in their Classics guide, with the crux surmounting the bergschrund. This might be true in some years depending on snowpack, but an easy class 3 path right through the center was found in Summer 2017.

Once over the 'schrund, ascend 1000' of snow and/or ice, gradually steepening from 40 degrees to near 70 degrees at the top. From the col, follow a class 4+ chute up and right for 400' to the summit.

Location

Approach via the Longley Reservoir trail. Once at the lake, cross the dam and ascend slabs up its left side. Gain the moraine and the follow whats left of the Humphreys Glacier to the bergschrund.

From the summit, reverse the route you just came up or descend/downclimb the East Arete instead. The latter option works nicely for parties day-tripping the route, but it also looks possible to descend the north side of the notch between Peaklet and the start of the East Arete if camped at the Longley Reservoir.

Protection

Depending on conditions and comfort level, one may want snow pickets, ice screws, and/or rock pro for leading and belays.

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