Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1800 ft (545 m), 4 pitches, Grade III|
|Page Views:||846 total · 34/month|
|Shared By:||Forrest Smith on Oct 15, 2018|
|Admins:||Chris Owen, Lurker, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Descent: There are anchors at the top for a rap and a second rap anchor about 40-50 feet down off the SE side of the summit block. We descended down the Hutchinson route using a few old rappel anchors that could use some new webbing (we added some 5m cord and a carabineer to one, I'd recommend bringing some leavers and cord) and downclimbed past other to avoid using the rope until we got down to the two chutes that lead to the black chute that we started on. Both chutes will get you down but it would be easier to traverse back to the bottom of the Buttress and go down from there. Descend the way you came up from there.
Most obvious access is from the Humphreys basin which is a 5 mile hike out of North lake (120 East from bishop, right turn to North lake a few miles past Aspendell) up Paitue pass trail. Once over the pass, immediately head north east towards the upper lakes until you reach Humphrey lakes another few miles East. From here the climb is straight ahead