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Routes in Mt. Humphreys

East Arete T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Hutchinson Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
North Couloir Direct T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c AI3
Southwest Slope and Northwest Face T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1800 ft
FA: Edward and James Hutchinson, 1904
Page Views: 1,973 total, 22/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Sep 13, 2010
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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permit required for overnight climbs or camping. Details


The route of first ascent in 1904.

Hike over Piute Pass and camp in Humphreys Basin, which is a high tundra like plateau west of the mountain.

Permits can be found here

Looking from Humphreys Basin there's a deep notch right of the main mass of the peak. A first right, then left slanting couloir heads up to it. Take this for a while until you can head left and into the south couloir, pass chockstones on the left at Class 4 until you reach a notch in the crest of the ridge (East Arete). This notch is known as "Married Men's Point" but I would advise you to keep going, even if you are married. The crux of the climb is next, a steep class 5 face for about 50 feet.

After this the wonderful summit is a short scramble away.

I recommend descending SW Slope and NW Face.


The south couloir to the right of the summit as seen from Humphreys basin.


Solo or rope and light rack.


Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
I soloed this route and descended the SW Slope and NW Face route in the mid 1980's. I didn't really want to reverse the class 5 face down to Married Men's Point, or the South Couloir for that matter.

One entry in the register said it all, "how the heck do I get down from here?" Sep 13, 2010