Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1800 ft|
|FA:||Edward and James Hutchinson, 1904|
|Page Views:||1,973 total, 22/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Owen on Sep 13, 2010|
|Admins:||Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
permit required for overnight climbs or camping. Details
Permits available in Lone Pine or Bishop.
DescriptionThe route of first ascent in 1904.
Hike over Piute Pass and camp in Humphreys Basin, which is a high tundra like plateau west of the mountain.
Permits can be found here
Looking from Humphreys Basin there's a deep notch right of the main mass of the peak. A first right, then left slanting couloir heads up to it. Take this for a while until you can head left and into the south couloir, pass chockstones on the left at Class 4 until you reach a notch in the crest of the ridge (East Arete). This notch is known as "Married Men's Point" but I would advise you to keep going, even if you are married. The crux of the climb is next, a steep class 5 face for about 50 feet.
After this the wonderful summit is a short scramble away.
I recommend descending SW Slope and NW Face.