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Routes in Santaquin Canyon Ice

Angel of Fear WI5-6
Automatic Control Theory WI5-6
Backoff WI4
Candlestick, The WI5-6
Get Back on It WI4
Martini S M9 A0-1
Squash Head WI3-4
Unnamed WI3
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Shared By: John Ross on Jun 11, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
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Description

With a good number of reliable, multi-pitch routes, Santaquin Canyon is a quality destination for ice climbing. In addition, difficult mixed lines will challenge even the best climbers.

Just far enough out of the way to not be too crowded, winter weekdays can make for lonely climbing. But on holidays and weekends when the ice is fat climbing parties are found on most popular lines. When there is a good layer of snow the sound of snowmobiles fills the canyon.

The ice season is usually best from mid-December to the end of February. Most of the ice routes are located on the south side of the canyon protected from the sun, and many routes can be spotted from the canyon road. Some ice formations may collapse during a mid-winter thaw and then reform later to climbable conditions.

Routes are most often found in potential avalanche gullies. Under the right conditions the avalanches can be enormous. Be sure to check the avalanche forecast before climbing.
Mt. Nebo Wilderness on south side of Santaquin Canyon. Details

Getting There

- Drive to Santaquin on I-15
- Take the Santaquin exit 244
- Exit the freeway and turn EAST
- Take the first RIGHT turn SOUTH onto Highland Drive.
- Go south for one (1) mile down Highland Drive until you come to a stop sign where you must either turn left or right. TURN LEFT.
- Drive into the canyon 3.8 miles to the Trumbolt Picnic Area (winter gate).

Winter Access

The canyon road closes for winter at Trumbolt Picnic Area around December 1st each year and re-opens in the spring by Memorial Day. In winter the road may be closed at the forest service sign about a mile down the road at the mouth of the canyon, depending snow conditions.

ATV use is illegal in Santaquin Canyon (fines up to $5,000). Snowmobiles are allowed if there is at least 12" of snow.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Santaquin Canyon Ice

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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