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Routes in Santaquin Canyon Ice

Angel of Fear WI5-6
Automatic Control Theory WI5-6
Backoff WI4
Candlestick, The WI5-6
Get Back on It WI4
Martini S M9 A0-1
Squash Head WI3-4
Unnamed WI3
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Ice, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Rick Wyatt & Doug Hansen, late 1970's
Page Views: 3,028 total · 22/month
Shared By: John Ross on Oct 29, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Mt. Nebo Wilderness on south side of Santaquin Canyon. Details

Description

P1 (WI2): Climb the low angle bulges to the bottom of the more vertical P2. Look for belay chains up a ramp on the right. This pitch is sometimes thin with water running under the ice.

P2 (WI4): This is the business pitch, steeper and often thin. At the top on the right is a two bolt anchor (may be covered with ice). Over the top are anchors on the left.

Descent: Two rope rappel from anchors.

Location

Found on the south side of the canyon .53 mile from the Trumbolt Picnic Area locked gate. The top of the route can be seen from the road. Scramble up the steep gully about 10 minutes to the base.

An alternate approach is to climb Squash Head, scramble above Squash Head's top anchors to the top of the ridge to rappel off of chains to the base of Backoff.

Protection

Pro: Bring a variety of ice screws depending on conditions (often thin).
Rope: double ropes
Anchors: Bolted - P1 chains are up a ramp to the right, P2 has a 2 bolt anchor at the top on the right. If those are ice covered use bolts over the top and on the left.

Under the right conditions avalanches can rip down this gully.

Photos

Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I dropped a 16cm screw (BD express) somewhere in the snow on the walkoff, I can identify markings if you find it. Otherwise fantastic route. As of Jan 2013 it looked pretty fat. What a climb! Jan 28, 2013

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